air-con not cold during hot day or when car is stationary. Temp. gauge indicates normal.i.e in the middle. I've hooked-up direct and the fan is at full speed when air-con kicks in. what I did was to remove the resistor and hooked direct. Is there any harmful effects to the electrical systems? Cooling systems seem to be working well after that.Oooopssss!!! sorry guys. Posted in the wrong place. Can someone please help me moved to the 5 series sec.???
Air-con Aux.Fan
- Thread starter CAJ19
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Originally posted by CAJ19@Dec 9 2004, 12:39 AM air-con not cold during hot day or when car is stationary. Temp. gauge indicates normal.i.e in the middle. I've hooked-up direct and the fan is at full speed when air-con kicks in. what I did was to remove the resistor and hooked direct. Is there any harmful effects to the electrical systems? Cooling systems seem to be working well after that.Oooopssss!!! sorry guys. Posted in the wrong place. Can someone please help me moved to the 5 series sec.???
if u bypass the resistor, ur fan will be @ high speed all the time. no harm i wud say but it might shorten the lifespan of ur auxfan, at least the c/brush.. anyway new resistor is only few quid
if u bypass the resistor, ur fan will be @ high speed all the time. no harm i wud say but it might shorten the lifespan of ur auxfan, at least the c/brush.. anyway new resistor is only few quid
shaifulo
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it happened to me just before the old website crashed...otherwise u cud read about it there....before u bypass the resistor, was the fan working at all? u said now the problem is sovled after you bypass, that means the resistor was faulty. I personally hate the fan running at full speed...noisy and too much load on the fan (afraid after 'kong' so fast)....why dont u get a new resistor?
Not sure which resistor you are referring to, but, when I had a similar problem - aircond dead (but with the engine overheating), the mechanic replaced the "switch" hooked up to the radiator, after that, air cond problem solved (and also needed a change in the dryer as the safety blew), overheating solved, fan now running at varying speeds.
ALBundy
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Bro, the electric fan is a two speed fan. It will move into high speed when1) engine temp is hot 2) refrigerant pressure is high. As such, there are two electrical/pressure switches, 1) at the side of the radiator and 2) near the compressor, on the refrigerant line/pipe.When the compressor is compressing the refrigerant and pressure is high, it will trigger the pressure switch which will cause the fan to run at high speed, similarly for the switch near the radiator. If your resistor is fine, then check these two switches! If wanna save some $$$, get the mercedes ones and apparently they also last longer.Hope this helps.Al
chaiks
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CAJ, isn't it obvious that the resistor is broken. Mine just changed to an MB unit cos mine @ low speed doesn't work. Now, mine is freezin. BTW, u won't wanna spoil that fan, I remember mine cost RM900. Don't know Naidu than, else he can service it.cheers
Originally posted by ALBundy@Dec 15 2004, 02:03 AM He quoted me 140 to repair my electric fan (got spare one, from e39). I think its a good deal!Al
al,im cheap n fixed my auxfan for the cost of a can of coke
i think moots change his to masedi auxfan n the motor cost 1/2 bmw price...(brand new fan lar ofcos)
al,im cheap n fixed my auxfan for the cost of a can of coke
i think moots change his to masedi auxfan n the motor cost 1/2 bmw price...(brand new fan lar ofcos)
amizana
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My air-cond went out of gas on Friday (31 Dec,2004).
The gas has just been re-filled 3 weeks ago.
The mechanic checked using bubble along the tubing, tabung gas and found leakeage at the connection
between the tubing and receiver drier (the tabung gas).
Changed a new drier, O-ring and refill R134 gas.
Total cost + labour = RM150.
After changing the new drier and trying out for 2 days, the air-cond is not cooling enough (compared to the old drier)
especially in the hot afternoon.
The old drier looks OK to me. But the mechanic insist to change a new one.
The O-rings have worn out and that is why I think that the leakeage encountered was at the tubing and the drier joint.
The mechanic I went to is a normal workshop were I always send my perdana for servicing.
Any of you had the same problem? Then, how to regain coolness during afternoon hot weather?
Should I change back to the old drier and replace only the O-ring?
The air-cond receiver drier can easily rosak meh..?
The history of the former drier is unknown. Maybe the previous owner never change the drier before.
The gas has just been re-filled 3 weeks ago.
The mechanic checked using bubble along the tubing, tabung gas and found leakeage at the connection
between the tubing and receiver drier (the tabung gas).
Changed a new drier, O-ring and refill R134 gas.
Total cost + labour = RM150.
After changing the new drier and trying out for 2 days, the air-cond is not cooling enough (compared to the old drier)
especially in the hot afternoon.
The old drier looks OK to me. But the mechanic insist to change a new one.
The O-rings have worn out and that is why I think that the leakeage encountered was at the tubing and the drier joint.
The mechanic I went to is a normal workshop were I always send my perdana for servicing.
Any of you had the same problem? Then, how to regain coolness during afternoon hot weather?
Should I change back to the old drier and replace only the O-ring?
The air-cond receiver drier can easily rosak meh..?
The history of the former drier is unknown. Maybe the previous owner never change the drier before.
In my case, according to my mech, the drier has a safety valve which tends to blow if the pressure within the radiator system gets too great. Judging by the looks of the earlier drier, it was kinda new, but because the resistor/switch was faulty and the fan was only running at slow speeds, it caused the AC drier safety valve to blow...
Hope this makes sense at 3am... zzzz
Hope this makes sense at 3am... zzzz
KiNaKa
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Amizana,
As the theory i follow during my job...
receiver drier and expansion valve should be replace... once the air conditioning circuit is opened... except for new but open again for some other job....
but for receiver drier... it must be replace although its new due to its not recommend to touching with atmospheric air (content moisture) .....
This procedure only done to the customer's car when i carry out air cond service for them.....
For my own car... replace once last time.. untill now nvr leak,
just some electrical problem.. but have solved it,relay's problem...
Do ur mechanic clean the air cond circuit by using nitrogen gas ??
worry if there are moisture in ur air cond circuit willl cause the AC system not cold enough....
Hope this will help !
As the theory i follow during my job...
receiver drier and expansion valve should be replace... once the air conditioning circuit is opened... except for new but open again for some other job....
but for receiver drier... it must be replace although its new due to its not recommend to touching with atmospheric air (content moisture) .....
This procedure only done to the customer's car when i carry out air cond service for them.....
For my own car... replace once last time.. untill now nvr leak,
just some electrical problem.. but have solved it,relay's problem...
Do ur mechanic clean the air cond circuit by using nitrogen gas ??
worry if there are moisture in ur air cond circuit willl cause the AC system not cold enough....
Hope this will help !
amizana
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KINAKA > Are you the BMW air-cond workshop tauke?
Dunno whether the mech clean the air-cond circuit with nitrogen gas or not.
Went again to the workshop today to complain the air-cond is not OK.
He suspect small amount of gas leaks and he added more gas.
If still leaking, the mech said need to check the coil which is under the
dash board. Is it???
To know whether leaking or not in a few days.........
Dunno whether the mech clean the air-cond circuit with nitrogen gas or not.
Went again to the workshop today to complain the air-cond is not OK.
He suspect small amount of gas leaks and he added more gas.
If still leaking, the mech said need to check the coil which is under the
dash board. Is it???
To know whether leaking or not in a few days.........
KiNaKa
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i driving e30 and my evaporator is under dashboard...
if deep checking onto the A/C system.. i recommend u send to bmw specialist... worry if bawah pokok will make ur interior produce stupid NOISE @ YUCKS ! same as my e30 now.. haha i remove the dashboard by myself... due to i'm not familiar with BMW components.. i just install everything back to original... luckily its not leaking problem...
just the A/C compressor relay problems...
i'm not sure how outside ppl check leak onto the air cond...
but for me, we are using the UV dye ( cost about RM50/ 50ML ) if i not mistaken, they inject to the circuit then re-filling in refrigerant and leave it for overnight...
determine leak by using UV lights + Goggles... dye colour are determine for WHOLE A/C circuit... if still can't find then only they will dismantle ur dashboard to check the evaporator housing..
sometimes the piping joing itself will leak where SOME but NOT ALL ppl nvr check it... they thought only condensor, coil(evaporator) will leak.. thats why we use dye onto the A/C circuit... to carry out complete checking... hope this will help... thankss
i'm not tauke of any A/C shop...
i just share my experience, and give my opinion... Don't take it so serious...
try consult all the BMW sifus here.. hehehe
i'm a just lil mechanic for cycle and carriage.. hehe
if deep checking onto the A/C system.. i recommend u send to bmw specialist... worry if bawah pokok will make ur interior produce stupid NOISE @ YUCKS ! same as my e30 now.. haha i remove the dashboard by myself... due to i'm not familiar with BMW components.. i just install everything back to original... luckily its not leaking problem...
just the A/C compressor relay problems...
i'm not sure how outside ppl check leak onto the air cond...
but for me, we are using the UV dye ( cost about RM50/ 50ML ) if i not mistaken, they inject to the circuit then re-filling in refrigerant and leave it for overnight...
determine leak by using UV lights + Goggles... dye colour are determine for WHOLE A/C circuit... if still can't find then only they will dismantle ur dashboard to check the evaporator housing..
sometimes the piping joing itself will leak where SOME but NOT ALL ppl nvr check it... they thought only condensor, coil(evaporator) will leak.. thats why we use dye onto the A/C circuit... to carry out complete checking... hope this will help... thankss
i'm not tauke of any A/C shop...
i just share my experience, and give my opinion... Don't take it so serious...
try consult all the BMW sifus here.. hehehe
i'm a just lil mechanic for cycle and carriage.. hehe
