318i e36 starts and dies

[Game-R]

The knocking sounds can be caused by an incorrect fuel mix as well. This was also a problem in my E46 where it was traced to a leaking PCV hose. Try checking for cracks or failed seals for all the intake manifold, it's related tubes and their connectors and joints-

we are talking about E36 lar.. not all E36 have MAF. most of them use AFM.

True, but I assumed that carlsberg was having an MAF equipped engine from his comments that he did replace them Yep, the old L-Jetronic and systems were so much more reliable. Even if the sensors all die, they could just still keep going on and on.

 

[Galaxy7]

I guess its a small leak or hairline crack at intake system coz when start during cold no problem right? Maybe the leak getting bigger during hot.

 

[jarance]

The knocking sounds can be caused by an incorrect fuel mix as well. This was also a problem in my E46 where it was traced to a leaking PCV hose. Try checking for cracks or failed seals for all the intake manifold, it's related tubes and their connectors and joints-


True, but I assumed that carlsberg was having an MAF equipped engine from his comments that he did replace them Yep, the old L-Jetronic and systems were so much more reliable. Even if the sensors all die, they could just still keep going on and on.

I dont think M43/318i/1999 have MAF. It should be a AFM as shown below.

Volume air flow sensor - BMW parts catalog

 

[carlsberg]

firstly, thanks guys for continuing to throw ideas around, thats much appreciated ..... OK, i had the complete intake off again today, tripple checked all the vacuum hoses, bending twisting etc, no cracks or tears, they are either new or very good, so id say its not a vacuum leak, the rattle sounds like timing chain, or loud pinking, and SOMETIMES happens at cold start, although the engine does'nt stall when cold..... i can discount the chain i think, because at all other times the engine is smooth and silent..... so, im back to thinking its a pinking from too much advance on the ignition........ thats why i changed the knock sensors, jee, they were badly cracked and most of the insulation was missing.......also, whoever fitted them, did'nt use a torque wrench, id estimate they were at around 40-50 pounds instead of the 12 they should be; --- knuckle busting job too.

as for flow meter, mine has the square topped meter as shown, part # 1 ive just swopped back to my original one, now conducting hot start tests with various time sitting for heat soak.

this is the last issue with the car, ive changed the blower fan to get rid of an annoying random squeal, ive changed the wiper mechanisim so the wipers no longer hit the bonnet, and ive changed the cam position sensor which has (i think, fingers crossed) cured the random 'hic-up' when cruising........... just this hot start issue to cure now and i can put her back into daily 160 kilometer commute service.

 

[carlsberg]

ok, just got the rattle and stall, after than, 10 starts perfectly..... seems to only happen after 10 minutes or so, and just the once..... this with original flow meter, so id say count that out, as 2 meters give identical performance.... so far the engine has had, new crank sensor, known good cam sensor, known good airflow sensor, new knock sensors, new vacuum hoses as required, new aircleaner element, ICV cleaned completly ( tried the car yesterday with this disconnected, less RPM at start up, but could still here rattle for shorter time before the engine stalled), recent plugs, and i swopped in a known good coil pack too....

other than this rattle and stall, the car runs great, perfect smooth idle, strong acceleration, and revs through to 6000 rpm+ on kickdown. the engine for 320k milage is smooth and silent..... almost zero oil consumption on toyota mineral changed every 3000k---- car is run on 95 octane

 

[ICEMAN 68]

try replacing the ECU with another car ...

 

[carlsberg]

is it plug and play? i have a spare here, but im cautious to play with ecu etc......

 

[jarance]

Here is something I found on the internet.

DME Relay

Many people I have spoken to have had problems with the relay that controls the DME computer itself. It's not uncommon for the main relay to have its contacts become corroded and fail to work 100% of the time. Even if the relay is intermittent, it might show up as the engine running rough, or stalling, or any other number of failures. One of the first steps I would take is to identify this relay (on E36 BMWs, it's relay number two, the white one, next to the fuel pump). Try swapping it out with a known good one if you have one, or swap it with another one on the board (like the one for the fog lamps). Try starting the car. If you see an improvement, then you might have found the problem. Start with the relay - it is the easiest and cheapest item to replace.

Yes you can swap the ECU or the DME if the part number are the same. However, if the car cannot start after swapping, it could be due to the EWS not sync to the ECU. In that case, you may have to change the EWS and the chip in the key.

Try changing the fuel filter first. It the cheapest and easiest thing to do.

 

[carlsberg]

i have a complete spare set with key etc. however, im gona try a few more start and test runs + cleaning connections again, + duno if all the new sensors and swopping stuff will cause the ecu to need to re calibrate... i will let the car settle in a bit before doing anything with relays and ecu, otherwise, i may never know what it was 'I fixed' !-------- we are taking the car up to betong thailand via Penang this weekend, so as it is now its running ok, next week i will have a look at the relay and ecu etc. i do not want to pull to much apart so close to the trip........ gona put some injector cleaner through it on one of the tankfulls on the trip too.

 

[carlsberg]

small update, had a frend mention it might be the idler pullys, so i swopped all of them today, still the same rattle and die at hot start after 20 minutes.

i was wondering, is there an oil bypass from the filter? if so, could it be jammed open? allowing the filter housing to drain dry?, then at start up, oil pressure is low, knock sensor kicks in to kill the engine? just a thought......... i notice when i change the filter, i try to fill the housing but it drains right away.......

 

[jarance]

did you get the "low oil pressure" light up on the dashboard?

the oil filter is located almost at the same height at the air intake manifold (top of engine) and the oil sump is located at the bottom of the engine.
The oil pump is located on the front bottom of the engine. ( see below)

when engine stop, oil will flow back to the sump from the filter housing via gravity.

you are getting colder in your troubleshooting.

Lubrication system/Oil pump with drive - BMW parts catalog

 

[carlsberg]

mnnn yea, but the thing is--- it sounds so mechanical... as for an oil light, no, theres a few bulbs out on the dash i think... so no help there. well, routine oil change tomorrow, then saturday we run up to thailand....... next week i'll get back n this

 

[jarance]

IMHO, I would not take the car out for a long journey when there is some outstanding issue.

 

[carlsberg]

ive done the betong trip many times with this car, and with these issue's, ive been to a few workshops, and can never replicate the hic-up or blower squeal---- the hot start, they just smile at me-------- so, im looking into this myself, although im a classic Fiat enthusiast, im trying to sort this computerised car -----the intermitent hic-up/blower squealing after a long long drive/bad hot start have been around for so long,im almost happy for it to break down, so i can find the problem.

 

[carlsberg]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1214596 I wonder??

 

[jeffreyewe]

Im having the similar symptom of hot startup lately on my E36 318i M43. My engine was totally rebuilt 2 years back personally. Pretty irretating so to speak. Planning to change the fuel pump and O2 sensor to test it out.

 

[unstopables_7]

Looks like this is quiet a major prob for e36 ..i am facing almost the same ..cold startup no prob..once hot i need to turn on the switch crank for almost 3-4 seconds and the car starts with overflow smell but sometimes onlu one crank engine starts..any idea guys?

I did change the plugs, petrol filter recently and is still there..

 

[initialM]

Maybe its time to change to 328 engine

 

[carlsberg]

hehehe 328 is overkill for what we use the car for, anyway, small update, the trip to betong via butterworth went ok, the car still has bouts of hic-ups though, hot starting at customs etc, all ok, no stalling..... then when im home i tried it--- rattle noise and stall LOL, today im fitting another low miles fuel pump, tomorrow im off to butterworth to see my fiat with it again, so will test for hic-ups, also, my contact in butterworth is taking me to a bmw workshop for a chat about the car........

i do seem to have cured the squealing noise from the blower fan though---thats something !

 

[carlsberg]

just fitted brand new fuel pump and filter, car sounds smoother and seems easier to start --- at all times, big road test tomorrow then will update again.