... my e36 318i starts perfectly when cold, and when hot, switch of and re start with no issues..... however, stop when hot for 10 minutes or more, try to re start, she fires up, then stalls...... and needs a small amount of gas pedal to get her to fire up again........ ive had the damn car to bits, replaced all intake hoses, cleaned the idle valve, cleaned the MAF new plugs, known good TPI, known good coil pack, new crankshaft sensor, known good camshaft sensor......... am i missing something? other than this the car drives and idles perfectly...
318i e36 starts and dies
- Thread starter carlsberg
- Start date
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you guys think that yea?... hhmm, its about the only thing i havint swopped yet !!, i have one in stock from my 90k milage halfcut-----------but just to be clear, this only happens when the car has been run and is hot....... switching off and immediate re start is no problem, however, switching off and leaving it for lets say a roti and teh tarik stop, thats when she fires straight away, the engine RPM surges, then drops off...sometimes stalling, sometimes picking up again and then a normal idle... i was thinking its the idle control valve, ive taken mine off, and cleaned thoroughly with carb cleaner, but there's no difference, do these ICV 's go bad?... i dont have one to swop in, my halfcut is a slightly later model... I have had one other issue which may be connected, its a random engine cut out, only for a millisecond, and only on a steady cruising throttle opening, its like all cylinders die for a fraction of a second... only happens sometimes, and then clears after a few 'hic-cups'.... i think ive cured this with replacement cam position sensor...... a few road tests have resulted in zero 'hic-ups'...... but it doesnt happen enough to make me think ive cured it.. i wonder if both issues are connected....... are the fuel pumps on E36 know to give trouble like this?
i have spare ecu here, anyway-im just back from a road test, gave the car some stick, using kickdown to redline in all gears..... and did some cruising too........no problems at all, now back home, the car starts a little better hot... only stalled a few times out of 10 or so starts....... think im gona pull the ICV off again, give it another clean out.. tomorrow i need to get some more hardex carb cleaner........
Have you tried swapping the MAF with a spare? Cleaning them may not be enough.
Same goes for the ICVs and yes they can get cranky, especially BMWs.
Hot engines are tricky to start because of the fast changing fuel mix needed because of the heated up air stuck in the induction manifold and intake housing which the engine has to breath through and then suddenly gets fresh cold air when you run the engine.
Same goes for the ICVs and yes they can get cranky, especially BMWs.
Hot engines are tricky to start because of the fast changing fuel mix needed because of the heated up air stuck in the induction manifold and intake housing which the engine has to breath through and then suddenly gets fresh cold air when you run the engine.
ive changed the MAF before, still the same...... the ICV, i dont have a spare, so will clean again.... the parts i have here are a later version, the ICV seems to be in the manifold, mine is early e36, with metal can ICV fitted on the manifold.... i just tried again, it fires up perfectly, but what ever it is that makes the engine rev a bit on start up seems to be intermittent... im really thinking its the ICV.....
edit, when it does start, theres no petrol smell or such, so i think the engine temp sensor is working ok... mixture wise i think all is fine, its the electro mechanical part thats the issue.... i wish i had an ICV to swop in to see..........
edit, when it does start, theres no petrol smell or such, so i think the engine temp sensor is working ok... mixture wise i think all is fine, its the electro mechanical part thats the issue.... i wish i had an ICV to swop in to see..........
It's not the engine temp sensor, but the sensor that detects the sudden change in the intake air temp, which is the MAF. But you already changed that.
Another likely culprit is the fuel vapour rebreather system which allows your engine to use evaporated fuel collected from the fuel tank. There is supposed to be a valve that controls when the engine starts to suck in fuel vapours from a collector and it may be jammed open. However I'm not sure if your model has it implemented yet. Could try looking down that avenue as well?
Another likely culprit is the fuel vapour rebreather system which allows your engine to use evaporated fuel collected from the fuel tank. There is supposed to be a valve that controls when the engine starts to suck in fuel vapours from a collector and it may be jammed open. However I'm not sure if your model has it implemented yet. Could try looking down that avenue as well?
Trust me, bro, MAFs can stall the engine when they are giving wonky readouts. My E46 had a sort of similar warm startup problem when it's MAF KO'ed: the engine ran like it only had 5 cylinders running and was impossible to keep it alive. I had to gun it (and keep restarting after it dies) for almost 5 minutes till it was able to return to normal idling. After replacing the MAF it ran sweet as a nut.
doesnt matter if full or nearly empty, same issue, after standing for 20 mins or so after a run, she will fire up, then stall, crank again and she will fire up and then idle ok.. sometimes a big surge in rpm, other times a smaller surge, either way, she settles to a perfect idle......
carlsberg;765319 said:
try bluegreen along federal highway near nanyang sang pau. reasonable price and good with old skool udm.
if the tank is near empty, then it can be a weak fuel pump. but since full tank also no problem, it could be a choked fuel filter.
when did you last change the filter?
another thing you might consider is the vacuum hoses. leaky hose can stall the car and also prevent starting.
ive replaced all the vacuum lines already due to age of the car, fuel filter is next to change, no one had stock when i tried this week..... air filter is new too.... the car is well serviced, this problem started a while back, about the same time the crank sensor went bad on me...... i guess i will just have to keep replacing parts till its fixed, unless i can find an old scool guy with an 'ear' for problems.... im fine on my old fiats, but have no experience on BMW, so its a guessing game..
on the US forums, theres several threads on this problem, with no one have success in curing it, seems it happens on E30's too...... a lot of the owners are resigned to it, for me though, its annoying, and putting extra wear and tear on the starter.... added to the fact, its wifys car, and she wants to replace it with a mazda 3 !!!!!!! so i need to get it perfect soon.... LOL, dun want a Mazda in the driveway at all !!
on the US forums, theres several threads on this problem, with no one have success in curing it, seems it happens on E30's too...... a lot of the owners are resigned to it, for me though, its annoying, and putting extra wear and tear on the starter.... added to the fact, its wifys car, and she wants to replace it with a mazda 3 !!!!!!! so i need to get it perfect soon.... LOL, dun want a Mazda in the driveway at all !!
update, stripped the car again, and cleaned everything, road test was fine, the car runs just great, but the random stalling after a hot car sitting a while is still there, ive noticed on thing though, when it does start, it does so perfectly, when its a 'stall start' it has a rattle to it, kinda like a timing chain or too far advanced ignition 'pinking' sound............ tomorrow im going to install different knock sensors and engine temp sender...... see if that changes anything.... the road test will be into KL to locate a fuel filter..
one other thing, my car should have OBD1 on it, and should show fault codes after the 'stomp the gas pedal' test...... theres no lights showing.........also, i put the car over the service pit, to check the O2 sensor, it does not have one....... did malaysian e36's of 1994 vintage come with less electronics then the euro/US version?
one other thing, my car should have OBD1 on it, and should show fault codes after the 'stomp the gas pedal' test...... theres no lights showing.........also, i put the car over the service pit, to check the O2 sensor, it does not have one....... did malaysian e36's of 1994 vintage come with less electronics then the euro/US version?
