0w30 Motor Oil in Malaysia!

[absidian]

It is strange how my comment on compromise got misintepretred here.

I merely pointed out that there are other considerations, particularly the bearings related to warm up issues - this doesn't mean the rest of the engine, especially the valvetrain should be neglected. Valvetrain gets oil pumped to it, the bottom end doesn't.

Cylinder wall wear - yes they do wear out, but not as much as you would think like in the adverts - again a point I was making because the rest of the engine is all too often forgotten.

I never implied that an engine should be revved without load.

But even with load at cold - not wise to rev. Interestingly enough, there is an ongoing debate about how experts treat their expensive race engines - you see them start the engine from cold then blip it highly just a few times - perhaps to circulate the oil more quickly when there isn't any heavy load? This is followed by slow warm-up laps.

A bit of both worlds really.

Anyway guys that's just my 2p. For the record I haven't had any such problems with any of my Alfa/BMW/Mitsu engines, even with heavy track use. I just like to hang around with the people who do rebuilds on shagged engines.

 

[selespeed]

It is strange how my comment on compromise got misintepretred here.

I merely pointed out that there are other considerations, particularly the bearings related to warm up issues - this doesn't mean the rest of the engine, especially the valvetrain should be neglected. Valvetrain gets oil pumped to it, the bottom end doesn't.

Cylinder wall wear - yes they do wear out, but not as much as you would think like in the adverts - again a point I was making because the rest of the engine is all too often forgotten.

I never implied that an engine should be revved without load.

But even with load at cold - not wise to rev. Interestingly enough, there is an ongoing debate about how experts treat their expensive race engines - you see them start the engine from cold then blip it highly just a few times - perhaps to circulate the oil more quickly when there isn't any heavy load? This is followed by slow warm-up laps.

A bit of both worlds really.

Anyway guys that's just my 2p. For the record I haven't had any such problems with any of my Alfa/BMW/Mitsu engines, even with heavy track use. I just like to hang around with the people who do rebuilds on shagged engines.

hi absidian;

i am saying warm up when engine is cold is not neccessary. you can do it but it is a waste of your time and do it too long may add more carbon deposits to it.

occasionally i blip it (not when cold) and that's ok. but if you revv it too many times too long without load would be bad.

when you drive off slowly, oil circulates quickly to all parts and engine heats up faster too. also, racing engines use less viscous or "thinner" oil because ther eis less friction and yeah oil travels faster.

i used to do tracks and also have absolotely no problems. when engine is properly warmed up after say, 15 minutes of slow driving, revv all you want and revv all i did. racing engines are a bit different. they're not designed to last long. they're designed to win and so robustness is not a key consideration.

my alfa manual always tells me to move off the car SLOWLY after starting the engine and gradually increase speed. as for e30, i don't know since i don't have a manual but i assume it is the same.

the only time i would idle longer (maybe 3 mins or so) to heat up the engine is when i have left my car inactive at home for say 4 days to 1 week, because oil would have been "pulled" down due to gravity

 

[meetoo]

Not meaning to offend you absidian, your views are most welcome. But I think you're talking about racing situation whereas we're talking about preserving our everyday ride. Anyway I think racers and their mechanics blip their engine more to pump themselves up rather than their cars. And they know they're going to shag every part of their car anyway, so the last thing on their mind is treating it well. As seles says, making a racing engine last is not the point of racing.

seles, every manual will tell you to drive off immediately on starting, but driving gently until operating temp is reached. A combustion engine is not designed to operate optimally at 1K revs and below. That is also when oil sludge and carbon deposits form the most, especially in cold engine. If you drive a lot in traffic jams, your engine will be sludgy and sooty. Why add to that by idling the car for a few minutes when doing cold start? Right?

 

[selespeed]

Not meaning to offend you absidian, your views are most welcome. But I think you're talking about racing situation whereas we're talking about preserving our everyday ride. Anyway I think racers and their mechanics blip their engine more to pump themselves up rather than their cars. And they know they're going to shag every part of their car anyway, so the last thing on their mind is treating it well. As seles says, making a racing engine last is not the point of racing.

seles, every manual will tell you to drive off immediately on starting, but driving gently until operating temp is reached. A combustion engine is not designed to operate optimally at 1K revs and below. That is also when oil sludge and carbon deposits form the most, especially in cold engine. If you drive a lot in traffic jams, your engine will be sludgy and sooty. Why add to that by idling the car for a few minutes when doing cold start? Right?

that's why i revv to redline most of the time and i find that my engine is very responsive and healthy. drive to vary the revv is good way to remove carbons. recently changed oil and was contemplating to try oil flush etc. but found that after oil change the engine performed very well and feels light. so responsive i sometimes reach my left hand wantng to change up (but could not reach the stick) not knowing it's already on 5th. you know this kind of feeling?

afterall, engines love to be revved, and cars love to run, right?

 

[flash]

Ai yo yo, from oil viscosity to engine warm-up... a real diversion. Ok, my input on engine warm-up, what I always do and the condition of my engines.... case in point, Wira 1.6XLi, purchased from new, sold off at 240,000km aka about 12 years old. My warm-up habits, driving off immediately from start-up but at low rpms aka not above 2k rpms. As the water temp picks up, I also increase the rpm limits, 3k, 4k... after 15 minutes, the engine should be sufficiently warmed-up. I usually rev my engine kau kau until redline or engine-cut-off, what to do, 1.6L only and some more auto. Oh, the Wira was also my daily driver up and down Genting Highlands. Always change engine oil and oil filter around every 7,500km, give or take 500km. Been using the Castrol Magnatec.

Ok, never had oil burning issues, never had to top up oil in between service and when the purchaser of my car had the timing belt changed, the mechanic was surprised there was no sludge, engine internal very clean and showed hardly any wear.

Same same with my previous Saga and KE30, current CITI, SLOTH and CRAP.

So I must be doing something right....

 

[vrrrooom]

Using Castrol GTX (For modern engine) for my E46 328 since May, have clocked 9,360km since. Third change now at 67341 as I change every 3000km. Cost me RM42 per 4 liters I just alternate the change of oil filter.

 

[meetoo]

What viscosity rating (SAE) is your Castrol GTX? That's what discussing here until got side-tracked

 

[selespeed]

Using Castrol GTX (For modern engine) for my E46 328 since May, have clocked 9,360km since. Third change now at 67341 as I change every 3000km. Cost me RM42 per 4 liters I just alternate the change of oil filter.

wah! you are very diligent! 3k change interval!

 

[vrrrooom]

The Castrol GTX is 15-40 Normal Mineral. I have use it since my first car 9 years back (Volvo S70)

 

[vrrrooom]

During the warrenty I have did the change at normal workshop RM5 labour only. Oil is RM35 9 years ago.. Price increased each year. Federal schedule each service at 15K, thats too long. Hope the new ower of my S70 will do the same.

 

[meetoo]

vrrrooom, actually IMHO even with mineral oil, changes at 3k is not necessary. You can take it to 6k or 3 months whichever come first, especially if you're only changing the filter at 6k. The filter should always be changed if you're changing the oil.

The FA schedule of 15K or 6 months is normal with semi-synthetic. With fully synthetic, you can even take it to 25k or 12 months. IMHO in the long run, using fully syn is actually cheaper per km although the cost of the oil is is higher.

 

[pat8626]

hey guys, i have a ques abt run in for new car. As i never owned any new car before, so not sure whether is it necessary to perform the run in or not.

so, when talk abt run in, is it using mineral oil for the earlier 2500km service rather than fully or semi syn oil? Is it true to revv ur engine to max in each gear so that the "rubbish" in engine can be removed?(of course is after warm up,not in a cold morning)

thanks