Originally posted by Vanquish@Nov 9 2005, 12:47 AM
Dude ...
Sorry for the delayed response to your PM ... coming up next week to KL with the car. This week's trip is a day trip and I'll be flying in most likely.
Neway, some thoughts on your questions below -
1. Fronts - please check the origin of those Focals ... remember what Saat posted about the many raids in KL with the fakes flooding the market ? I wud also look at CDT HDs, DLS M6, PHD Roma, JL Audio XRs and a few more at that price range. BTW, what sorta sound you prefer cos that'll be the clincher. Focal tweets ... especially the ol TN 41/42 and 51 are known to be rather bright ... not warm in nature. Their metal construction does not help the case any further hence amp matching is crucial to get the best of them.
2. Main amp - mite as well go the whole hog and nail a 4 channel which you can use for both the fronts and sub for now. Again - budget and music preference will help too. Some basic onboard x-overs or EQ mite help for now but if your HU already comes with these ... why bother rite ? Minimum power output must be about 50W RMS x 4 .. more will be nicer of course.
3. Sub amp - a decent brute will do the job ... a 2 channel amp with about 100W x 2 can be bridged to supply about 300-400W x 1 for the sub duty. We're talking about raw power delivery here and not so much of finnese and grace so a decent amp even from the likes of Mohawk, Zeuz, Stellar or Prokick will do just fine. If you can splurge ... get a Class D mono amp - they are hugely efficient thru various impedance, can pound for hours and prices are coming down quite a bit these days.
4. I'm not much of a fan of 5 and 6 if you ask me. I'll splurge on a decent HU with built in Time Alligment, 2 or 3 way X-overs, multi band parametric EQs and 2 pairs of hi voltage pre-outs at the end of the day. Most HU are fitted with accurate and flexible onboard x-overs and EQs that I don't really see the point of buying external ones these days. Remember that you'd want to keep the set-up as simple but as effective as possible. The line driver is not required unless your HU only has pre-outs supplying low voltage ... like 2.7 - 3.5V which used to be the name of the game those days la. As long as your HU has a couple of or more pre-outs with 4V output, you can scratch the line drivers off your shopping list. Hi voltage alone is not enough as the rest of your gears - especially the amp and the HU must be able to accept them and make full use of them.
5. Cables and wires - Do NOT skimp on them please .... but neither do you need to go with all Monster, Chord, MIT or Stinger set-up at the end of the day. Get some decent cables - RCA, power and speaker cables from some local brands that are much better than those brandless ones. How much difference they can make .... quite a fair bit really. I'm using a pair of EFX Platinums by Scosche for my subbie and fronts comps and absolutely swear by them ... hooking them up in lieu of my old Beldens immediately made marginal difference to the overall sound quality.
6. Tuning - the other 50% of the equation. Get this wrong or taken for granted and you'll even have a high end system that could sound really horrible. Trust the installer - take your pick from Simon at Tehnichi, Kho at Klasse, Jerry at Sound Quest, Ah Bee at ACP and etc, let them know exactly what you want and let your ears be the judge.
7. Used gears aah ? I have my CDT subbie, my back-up HU which is an Eclipse CD5441, an ol 4 channel MTX amp and my ol Monitor Audio 5 car components and some old cables and wires lying at home. Also got my beloved PPI 200.2 Black Art Series 2 channel amp in the box ... tis one not for sale cos planning to add another 3 inch DLS UR mid units into the E36 door tweeter location later la .... no more money to spend already ... :cry:
Cheers,