Sharing My Experience - E36 328i 1997 M52 Auto

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thanks bro bmw7833,
i mean the relay for aux fan inside the fuse box.
how much the resistor pack price? can get it from BA??
 
I am not mechanic, my knowledge is base on what i read. As far as i know, resistor pack is not sale separately. U are advice to get second opinion from 'true' mechanic.
 
Aux Fan Problem(low speed not rotate) Solved

Finally my problem solved. The problem is the AUX Fan relay (relay no.356)

actually i already changed using new relay (third party, bcoz BA do not have the ori relay in stock)
but the new third party relay also give the same problem to me (Aux fan low speed not rotate)

So i open up the cover of my existing problem ori relay and clean the relay contact. My fan back to normal until now, running about 3weeks already. No more problem.:rock:

Clean the relay also solved my problem the AUX Fan Fuse always blow. No more Aux Fan Fuse blow for me. :cool:

Here's i share some of my DIY pictures:
View attachment 19974
View attachment 19975
View attachment 19976
 
Glad u manage to solve the problem yourself and sharing. It will be helpful indeed to other members. Cheers
 
My GM4 auto gearbox problem finally solved, after 1 year ++

What was the problem with my gb?
- Up shift gear2 to 3 problem. All other gear ok, no problem.
- During the gear 2 to 3 shift, the gear will be free like neutral gear. Have to manually switch the gear to 3 from D then wait until it shifts. After it shifts to 3 (with jerking), then manually switch back to D.
- Sometime it will not switch at all to 3 although i already put the gear at 3. It will straight go from gear 2 to 4 (with jerking also). when it skips the gear 3, the gear symbol on meter will turn on (limp mode) and the gearbox will maintain at gear4 only. have to restart the car to turn off the limp mode.
-diagnose the car shows error code 100: gear monitoring problem.

How i solved my problem?
- i changed 2 pcs gearbox solenoid valves, part number are 24 33 7 537 062 and 24 33 7 537 063.
-both solenoids already checked before, but showed no problem. weird huh?

Now the car running about 1 week already after i changed the solenoids. No more gear free/jerking problem so far. It running smoothly. My gearbox also never been rebuild/overhaul before this. my current odometer is already 477 200km and the car's pickup still ok. hope the gearbox can serve me for the next 500 000km. BMW :rock:
 
Changing my headlamp from Taiwan made to Hella ori made.

Why i change to Hella ori made?
-my taiwan made headlamp already buruk and crack already. need new headlamp for hari raya :eek: also i hate the yellowish plastic taiwan made material.
-the taiwan made headlamp not so terang anymore. trouble for me driving on dark road.

Since i bought the car, the previous owner already changed to taiwan made headlamp. so i do not know how is the ori headlamp wiring. it seems like the wiring already been modified to fit the taiwan made headlamp.

So i take out the taiwan headlamp and study a bit about the wiring and redo the wiring for my new Hella headlamp. Luckily the wiring is just simple, each bulb only have +ve and -ve. 4 pairs of +ve and -ve for each side including the signal lamp and plus 3 wires for the up and down headlamp motor i think. so total 11 wires for each side.

Here's some pics:
View attachment 20193
Taiwan Made VS Hella Ori Made

View attachment 20194
my soldering station

View attachment 20195
Rewiring to the connector and soldering finished
 
More pics:
View attachment 20196
Hella made VS Taiwan made

View attachment 20197
tadaaaa

View attachment 20198
i like it

already tested last night on dark road, very bright compare to my previous taiwan made. very puas hati. maybe some SMD LED angel eyes for next project will make it looks better. :4:

also i love the up and down button function below the car meter, beside the meter brightness button. its working now. i can see the headlamp light up and down while i playing with the switch. might be helpful for highway driving if i want to drive fast and do not want to use high beam. bcoz the light is just slightly up and will not disturb the opposite drivers.
 
My Fuel Pump Failure While Driving

just sharing my experience:

i was slowing down my car at traffic light and suddenly my car feel like losing power and the engine died. i tried to start my car again, the engine cranks but it didn't start. so i was thinking it has nothing to do with my battery because the engine still can cranks, it maybe something else that cause the problem. it was getting dark at that time so i decided to push my car to the shop lot parking nearby (luckily it was very near to the traffic light) and left my car over there. i plan to fix it tomorrow's morning.

During the night, i google about "e36 suddenly died" and keep reading. my symptom is towards to the fuel pump failure. but i still have to do some test to confirm it. on internet i also found the wiring flow for fuel pump:
DME--> DME relay--> Fuel pump relay--> Fuse #18--> Fuel pump

i also read that the fuel pump makes some noise/sound if its working.

i learn on how to replace the fuel pump from this link: http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/...8287-e36-fuel-pump-diagnosis-replacement.html

so the next morning my troubleshoot will be based on the knowledge i read above.

the next morning:

after removed the back seat and opened the metal cover, now i can see the fuel pump.

then i tried start the engine to check the pump. no noise or vibrate at all on the pump.

so the next step, check power to fuel pump:

at first, i just turn the key on and check the power to fuel pump. there is no power at all to the fuel pump(socket with bigger wires). only got power at fuel level socket(the other socket with smaller wires). then i thought it can be either DME, DME relay, fuel pump relay or fuel pump fuse (#18) problem.

then luckily i was remembered reading about this last night:
have to crank the engine in order to check the fuel pump. because turn the key to on will supply the power to the pump for only about 3-4 seconds then it will cut off the power and it will wait until the engine crank to supply the power again to the fuel pump.

so i crank the engine and yes, socket to fuel pump got power this time. so this tell me that the DME, DME relay, fuel pump relay and fuse #18 are working fine.

So now i confirmed that fuel pump is the problem.

buy the fuel pump-oem VDO brand(RM412) and O-ring(RM25) from BA. after changed the fuel pump my car back to normal. :top::rock:

here's the pics of my problem unit:

Fuel Pump
View attachment 20670

the rubber holding the pump also broken
View attachment 20672

the fuel level unit still in good condition
View attachment 20673
who interested in getting my used fuel level unit, just let me know. if no one then i will keep it as my spare unit. :wink:
 
Tq for sharing for the benefit of all..indeed, it's one of the 'favourite' problems of UDM..good to know that u solved everything yourself...
 
Just changed my battery, GP ATLAS DIN66 maintenance free-RM285. trade in old battery RM20. total damage RM265.
my previous battery is DELKOR maintenance free, it lasts 4years ++ for me. had to give try to GP ATLAS this time because the nearest battery shop to my house do not carry DELKOR brand. i will update in future on how long this battery will last.

any members had experience with GP ATLAS battery???
 
Since the topic of changing the vanos seals were proposed earlier of this thread, did you manage to change it? If not, has anyone done a DIY on it? Any instructions?
 
kitwhizz;682059 said:
Since the topic of changing the vanos seals were proposed earlier of this thread, did you manage to change it? If not, has anyone done a DIY on it? Any instructions?

i'm not change the vanos seal yet. i plan to do it later together with top overhaul.
 
Have used gp atlas on my previous ride. its ok but as with most maintainance free batt it would normally give way after 2 years. so just get ready to check at 2 years.
 
slyder;683923 said:
Have used gp atlas on my previous ride. its ok but as with most maintainance free batt it would normally give way after 2 years. so just get ready to check at 2 years.

thanks for the info
 
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