ignition switch

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jon3171

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hey there, does anyone happen to have a good and working condition e28 ignition switch? thanks
 
Call this person : 0126558910.. Azmi

by the way, the switch is the same as 84' and above e30's too...
 
thanks bro, btw my e28 is a 1982 528i....is it still the same as the 84 and above e30s? Also...there are times where i can't start the car easily...(no cranking) but if i wait awhile and keep trying it usually starts again....recently when i'm driving the voltage keeps dropping every now and then and the car sometimes dies and i have to start it again....alternator, battery and fuel pump, spark plugs are new...i've checked battery cables and alternator charging cable...does this sound like ignition switch problem?
 
Hi bro,

It is very likely your ignition switch. It is quite common problem for frequent start-stop usage..ageing factor after all.
If you want your car in original condition, new ignition switch requires new set of keys, hence you may have 2 sets
of keys for ignition and doors, unless u r using remote entry.

The other possibility is the fuel relay, it is a square relay ( 2" x 2" x 4") located beside the fuse box at the engine bay.
If u start your car and pull out this relay, your car engine will stall.

Btw, I have one ignition switch.

Regards,
Blackbeast.
 
thanks for the advise bro....kindly pm me how much u want for the ignition switch. btw how would i know if its the starter or not? Also...isn't the ignition switch separate from the key barrel? so i should be able to use back my current key right?
 
Hello again,

The starter function is just to crank the engine. When u switch it on and yr engine cranks...your starter is fine then.
Sometimes the mechanical switch for the starter is broken(ignition switch), causing no supply to the starter hence it won't start.

For e28 and e30 model, the switch mechanism inside is made of plastic, after a while it get brittled and kaput...wear and tear of course.
The switch has 3 steps/turn, 1st step/turn is normally for radio, 2nd step/turn for the engine management system(EMS), 3rd step/turn is for the
starter. 2nd and 3rd step is latched, meaning when u turn to 3rd step the (EMS) is also engaged to allow the fuel pump, ignition etc to work.

It is NOT advisable to separate the ignition switch from the key barrel, minor mistake may cause the switch mechanism faulty and cannot be
used at all. Alternatively, if your 1st and 2nd step switch is ok, u can just add another push-start button for the starter, cool isn't it. But from
your explanation, probably yr 2nd step switch is having problem...you can add another ON switch for this in order to keep your original set of
keys...


regards,
blackbeast
 
thanks for the very informative post...just as a precaution i have had my starter rebuilt....i have yet to encounter any starting difficulty but then again its still early days...i still have a voltage drop problem that happens intermittently...it happens when i brake hard, drive over bumpy roads and things like that leading me to suspect a contact issue of sorts...i will open up the steering covers and see whats going on with the ignition switch...maybe it is brittle like u mentioned or some rotting wires somewhere...btw are u selling urs?
 
u r welcome...

it is worth to check yr ecu connection, it may stall yr car as well. live wire short to ground can also cause stalling. with yr engine off, pull out the -ve battery connection, and insert it in back...there should not be any heavy spark during insertion...if there is, high possibility there is shorting somewhere, when u hit bumpy road, the shorting pull down the voltage and it dies off yr engine.

I have one complete spares...just reconfirm yr actual problem first, look for purple, black, black stripe yellow, green and red color wire, it is for the
ignition switch. just open the underneath steering cover, it is on the left bottom, near yr knee area.

happy troubleshooting...

blackbeast
 
blackbeast;717682 said:
u r welcome...

it is worth to check yr ecu connection, it may stall yr car as well. live wire short to ground can also cause stalling. with yr engine off, pull out the -ve battery connection, and insert it in back...there should not be any heavy spark during insertion...if there is, high possibility there is shorting somewhere, when u hit bumpy road, the shorting pull down the voltage and it dies off yr engine.

I have one complete spares...just reconfirm yr actual problem first, look for purple, black, black stripe yellow, green and red color wire, it is for the
ignition switch. just open the underneath steering cover, it is on the left bottom, near yr knee area.

happy troubleshooting...

blackbeast

Do u think its possible that the ignition switch is the one shorting? i've checked the wiring and i don't think anything else is shorting as just about all of the wiring on the car has been checked and neated during restoration anyway.
 
In any case here are a few other things i should mention and reconfirm...the battery is new(3months), alternator and starter have been rebuilt, and while starting has been easier since doing the starter...there are still times when it just doesnt crank at all(there is also a whining or humming noise when i try to turn the key to start), the other things is i noticed all these symptoms right around the time my remote start refused to work...wiring has been checked and alarm system is new also(working fine previously(instant start)...then intermittent, then not at all!)
 
Hi,

The humming or whining sound may likely comes from yr fuel pump...that is normal, if it is intermittently fine, then that is
the most probable cause, ie yr ignition switch for the starter (3rd turn) is kaput...

regards,
bbeast
 
yea its not the fuel pump whine...thats a diff kind of sound which i recognize....i guess its time for a new ignition switch!
 
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