OK, I didn't check whether the engine oil level was at MAX level when I first got the new car.I just checked this morning, after doing 2,700kms and 1 month of dricving - it is now at about 80% level (between MIN and MAX markers).Is this normal? My diriving style for the past month has been moderate, hardly go above 4000 rpms.
Engine oil level @ 80% after 2700kms?
- Thread starter Orion
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If ... The big if ... It was 100% when new then there is no way it should lose 20% after a mere 2,700 kms. Mine done a good 7,500 kms and it was still at 100% when it went for the 1st service. Why not top it back up to full and then monitor the oil level?
astroboy
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The gauge between max and min is about 1 liter. The gauge only report by quarter of a liter unit of measure, meaning you are either full, or 0.25L short, or 0.5L short, or 0.75L short or 1L short. In Orion's case, I believe it's 0.25L short.
The sensor we are using is some sort of submarine tech that uses ultrasonic concept: http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hel...ustry/Electronics/TI_Oelsensorik_GB_TT_05.pdf
I find the accuracy is highly questionable because too many variables involved. I have even seen cases where owner keep topping up and later on diagnosed as having a faulty oil level sensor which resulted in an over-filled situation.
Best monitor it a bit longer, just to see if the reading is consistent. For my 320i, on every oil change, I only fill 4L instead of the recommended 4.25L and the gauge fluctuates from full to 0.75L short. I only top up when +1L warning is up, and it only happened once and that's because my oil filter o-ring was leaking.
The N52 magnesium block is more notorious in consuming engine oil at an "acceptable" rate of 1L at around 8k km while the N46 aluminum blocks are having less cases in oil loss.
The sensor we are using is some sort of submarine tech that uses ultrasonic concept: http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hel...ustry/Electronics/TI_Oelsensorik_GB_TT_05.pdf
I find the accuracy is highly questionable because too many variables involved. I have even seen cases where owner keep topping up and later on diagnosed as having a faulty oil level sensor which resulted in an over-filled situation.
Best monitor it a bit longer, just to see if the reading is consistent. For my 320i, on every oil change, I only fill 4L instead of the recommended 4.25L and the gauge fluctuates from full to 0.75L short. I only top up when +1L warning is up, and it only happened once and that's because my oil filter o-ring was leaking.
The N52 magnesium block is more notorious in consuming engine oil at an "acceptable" rate of 1L at around 8k km while the N46 aluminum blocks are having less cases in oil loss.
Thanks for the diagnosis Astroboy.
I will be monitoring it and see if it goes any lower.
The thing is that I do it on the iDrive and it will take some time after engine start before it shows the level of the engine oil. And when the engine is running it oil level at the bottom would probably be lower becuase it is flowing and sloshing around right?
I kind of agree with you that the accuracy of the sensor may be questionable - if the mileage calculations of the on board computer shows a different value (usually reads better milelage per litre) than my calculations, it will imply that the engine oil measurements are also estimates. For my last 3 measures the computer shows 9 to 15% better mileage compare to my "pump full tank and divide by distance" approach.
I will be monitoring it and see if it goes any lower.
The thing is that I do it on the iDrive and it will take some time after engine start before it shows the level of the engine oil. And when the engine is running it oil level at the bottom would probably be lower becuase it is flowing and sloshing around right?
I kind of agree with you that the accuracy of the sensor may be questionable - if the mileage calculations of the on board computer shows a different value (usually reads better milelage per litre) than my calculations, it will imply that the engine oil measurements are also estimates. For my last 3 measures the computer shows 9 to 15% better mileage compare to my "pump full tank and divide by distance" approach.
astroboy
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aidilj;740608 said:
Need to open fuel rail, and intake manifold to access.. wait until CCV due change at 100k km only do the retrofit la. :4:
From this:
To this:
To do the above, got to open all these.. see also pengsan!! profile gasket for the intake manifold also may need changing once buka..
.. and this.. the fuel rail.. kns! Don't play play!
