E36 M40 overheated, time to change?

[masCh]

Was driving slowly one day while making a u-turn I caught a glimpse of the temperature and it was red. Immediately I shutdown the engine and opened the hood. To my horror the coolant tank was empty.. due to hose bocor. So I refilled the tank, it was holding, I drove home. Had to stop 2-3 times (not far from home) to refill the tank, it was always at 3/4 ~100C when I stopped the engine and refilled again. After getting the hose done, I'm having doubts about the engine. How do I know if there's a crack in the engine? I also about 1 week prior saw this E36 320i 6-potter halfcut. If I have to change to a new engine, I'd rather get this. It can be done right? Will JPJ allow it? I hope my current engine can still hold for another year or two to start saving..

 

[kelvinp]

you can go do a compression test on the engine to find out if everythings alright.

 

[jarance]

Just run the engine and open the radiator cap when it is cold. Check whether there is air bubbles coming out when you rev the engine. If there are sign of bubbles or oil film in the radiator, then your cylinder head is either cracked or wraped. BTW, did you fill the radiator immediately when the overheating ocurred. You should always allow the engine to cool down for about 1 hour or so before pouring cold water. This will prevent the wraping.

Getting a new engine is a good idea but it will be a costly affair. You can get a engine kosong for about RM1500 to RM1800. This depends on the CC and age. It also depend on your luck as well as you do not know how much the engine was utilised prior to being scrapped. You also have to consider to change the timing belt (if using belt) and other bearing and tensioner. The cost for labour is another seperate cost that you will considered.

Doing a top overhaul would be a better option if the cranshaft, lifter etc are in good condition. The mechanic would be able to determine whether the cylinder head is warp or the gasket is blown.

If you change the engine, you will have to re-register the new engine at JPJ or else you will not be able to sell your car later. Hence, make SURE that you can get an AP certificate when you buy a new engine.

 

[masCh]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm gonna have to do some testing at the mechanic. I only changed the M40 timing belt 1 day prior to the overheating, sigh.

I didnt wait for it to cool down when it was overheating the few times. I knew it was hot, and when I opened the radiator cap i was expecting the cap will fly, but since there was no water, there wasnt even steam

What's the effects of a crack? I believe it will affect performance, but what about fc or other side effects?

 

[absidian]

Basically when a crack occurs in the block then water will seep where it shouldn't. In most typical cases it will seep into your oilways and mix with oil, and vice versa, resulting in major failure eventually. With cracks, I would be concerned with engine longevity rather than loss in performance because it is only a matter of time before failure.

Best to get it tested... you never know, fingers crossed maybe it never cracked/warped at all.

After fixing the leak, keep an eye on the radiator water's quality (look for oily gunk), check regularly for "mayo" under the oilcap and monitor your exhaust's output (excess steam, coloured smoke).

 

[masCh]

So should it be M42 at 140bhp or M50 at 150bhp?

With the M50 I pretty much need to change everything right? including gearbox, suspension, etc?

 

[LCP]

Racun... get M50B25TU... hehehe... Anyway, how much is the quote to get the whole job done to change from your M40 to M50B20? What about to change to M42 (can get half cut ah)?

I think can use same gearbox... well, at least for manual anyway.

 

[eau-rouge]

i think M42 is enough..
no need to pening kepala change this,change that...
in terms of power,only 10hp compared to M50..not that much i guess??

 

[masCh]

There's the M50 halfcut at the kedai potong near here..
The M42 is harder to find.. at least for me.

But I'm concerned about part-interchangbility.. for long term maintenance.
I dont wanna change into an engine that will be hard to find parts for.

Btw, its auto =P

 

[LCP]

Actually when comparing M42 to M50B20, for daily driveability, the difference in power is not what matters, it's the difference in torque... as the saying in the non-ah-beng car mod world goes... "there is no substitute for displacement"... so, M42 maybe much higher powered than the M40/M43B18, but in terms of torque at low/mid revs, it will still behave like a 1.8, maybe with just slight improvement over the M40/M43. The M50B20 will always have more torque since it displaces 200cc more...

But to keep things simple, I guess plonking in a M42 will involve less headache... also, the mod path in the quest for more torque and power is there, subject to the depth of the pocket... can turbo it, supercharge it, stroke it, etc...

 

[masCh]

Yeah I think what I need now is torque. I tried to climb Genting the other day.. yikes. The car wont maintain its rpm, it keeps dropping and dropping..

Are you saying there is no mod path for M50B20?

 

[LCP]

Got... I think it's called M50B25...

 

[masCh]

heheh.. i meant mod chips, filter, etc

 

[python_dev]

There's the M50 halfcut at the kedai potong near here..
The M42 is harder to find.. at least for me.

But I'm concerned about part-interchangbility.. for long term maintenance.
I dont wanna change into an engine that will be hard to find parts for.

Btw, its auto =P

Ahh I know where to find 2 M42...LOL just in Old Puchong rd, just got to negotiate on price a bit. 2K for Engine and wiring, 4.5K for half cuts.

 

[LCP]

masCh, yes, of course, simple bolt-on mods are always around... I'm sure there are chips for M50B20, the same goes with exhaust systems, air intake, etc.

Anyway, whichever engine you choose, before you put it in, it is highly recommended that you spend some extra $$$ to rebuild it fully first, this will give you peace of mind, and it will be like new (you hafta run it in gently for first 1k km or so). Also, you will not know the exact condition of the half-cut engine. And oh, while you are at it (rebuilding), port the intake and exhaust ports/manifolds too, and lighten, blueprint and balance the crankshaft too...

But rebuilding engines with some performance-oriented mods thrown in here up north can be difficult, not many (if any at all) people can (or wanna) do it.