Any guys having unsolved problem on wheel alignment , lately I experience some problemin speeding my wheel , the car floats or feel heavy towards left side , so I changed my tayerand did ask them to check on alignment , they said the alignment is perfect but still I face the same problem , my foreman introduce another alignment shop , this shop I visited was different , he is very conventional ,no computerized alignment equipment, he is different very classic , after setting he explains to me the problem, the driving was very robust ,the alignment was perfect but the charges sightly expensive - RM160 for 4 Wheels - I am satisfied with the charge because now I can speed 200km/hr .
E- 60 wheel alignment
- Thread starter bala8282
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Try this shop at Old Town PJ, behind the wet market. Its called Tayar Ria and the guys are good. They dont cheat and service is good. They do all the alignment and balancing for Mercedes and are tyre wholesalers. Give them a shot if you like. Cheap and good!
astroboy
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I can walk into any shop to do my alignment because I know exactly what degree of toe in and camber I want, provided that the shop has the special long wrench for BMW. Imagine walking in to coffee shop and ask the waiter what drinks suits you best.. how to answer?
All alignment machines are pre-programmed with our chassis code, just pick the code and you get a set of acceptable tolerance range for our vehicle. So anything within the recommended range is acceptable and that's what all tyre shops practice. Never goes wrong.
Now you can see a range in the alignment machine. The only thing you need to consider now is to pick the aggressive outer range or the conservative inner range. If you don't tell the sifu, he'll just set to the middle and agak agak, car can go straight, kao tim! So sometime you get conservative setting but you complain handling tak sedap, sometime you get aggressive setting but you complain tyre makan dalam.. :4:
Aggressive = good handling, consume petrol, tyre makan dalam, sacrifice top speed and no pick up.
Conservative = save tyre, save petrol, good top speed, good pick up but cornering tak sedap.
My E90 front dead camber, cannot set and I'm running zero toe-in, yes, I couldn't believe it too but when exiting roudabout, let go steering, it can straighten, so I'm not complaining. Confirm tyre preservation because toe-in makan tayar despite helping car to point straight and not pulling one side. Surprisingly I don't suffer understeer wor! :13:
My rear on minimal toe-in each side to keep the car point straight and at negative 1.3 degree camber. Consider aggressive for my wife's use but I'm using a symmetrical pattern tyre, so if makan inside, I can still re-mount. You need to be aware of this option but if you use asymmetrical tyre, you don't have this option. All this you have to think for yourself. Tyre shop couldn't be bothered. I used to run negative 1.1 rear camber on my OEM RFT CSC2 because that's asymmetric pattern, so not suitable for re-mount. So I was on tyre conservation strategy as oppose to handling. I decide. The E90 rear acceptable camber range is negative 1.1 to negative 1.3.
So what's your favorite/preferred setting?! Mine is Teh Ais kao Kurang Manis.. :4:
My last alignment was done more than 1 year ago near AB Sg Besi, Tan & Tan Tyre shop carrying Michelin logo, further down from the AB show room, on the left. Most AB Sg Besi car alignments are done there even though AB Sg Besi has alignment machine in the workshop. :4:
Alignment job is RM80 and RM20 per wheel for camber, so only 2 rear wheels has camber setting, max damage is 80+20+20 = RM120. If camber no lari, only RM80. So seriously, when I see those figures you all mentioned above.. is really mind boggling to me.. :13:
All alignment machines are pre-programmed with our chassis code, just pick the code and you get a set of acceptable tolerance range for our vehicle. So anything within the recommended range is acceptable and that's what all tyre shops practice. Never goes wrong.
Now you can see a range in the alignment machine. The only thing you need to consider now is to pick the aggressive outer range or the conservative inner range. If you don't tell the sifu, he'll just set to the middle and agak agak, car can go straight, kao tim! So sometime you get conservative setting but you complain handling tak sedap, sometime you get aggressive setting but you complain tyre makan dalam.. :4:
Aggressive = good handling, consume petrol, tyre makan dalam, sacrifice top speed and no pick up.
Conservative = save tyre, save petrol, good top speed, good pick up but cornering tak sedap.
My E90 front dead camber, cannot set and I'm running zero toe-in, yes, I couldn't believe it too but when exiting roudabout, let go steering, it can straighten, so I'm not complaining. Confirm tyre preservation because toe-in makan tayar despite helping car to point straight and not pulling one side. Surprisingly I don't suffer understeer wor! :13:
My rear on minimal toe-in each side to keep the car point straight and at negative 1.3 degree camber. Consider aggressive for my wife's use but I'm using a symmetrical pattern tyre, so if makan inside, I can still re-mount. You need to be aware of this option but if you use asymmetrical tyre, you don't have this option. All this you have to think for yourself. Tyre shop couldn't be bothered. I used to run negative 1.1 rear camber on my OEM RFT CSC2 because that's asymmetric pattern, so not suitable for re-mount. So I was on tyre conservation strategy as oppose to handling. I decide. The E90 rear acceptable camber range is negative 1.1 to negative 1.3.
So what's your favorite/preferred setting?! Mine is Teh Ais kao Kurang Manis.. :4:
My last alignment was done more than 1 year ago near AB Sg Besi, Tan & Tan Tyre shop carrying Michelin logo, further down from the AB show room, on the left. Most AB Sg Besi car alignments are done there even though AB Sg Besi has alignment machine in the workshop. :4:
Alignment job is RM80 and RM20 per wheel for camber, so only 2 rear wheels has camber setting, max damage is 80+20+20 = RM120. If camber no lari, only RM80. So seriously, when I see those figures you all mentioned above.. is really mind boggling to me.. :13:
harisbimmer
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oooo...i ccc...
astroboy
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EL118;683722 said:
Hehe.. because we care so much for our car, we pay attention to details, we question and don't trust any workshop.. hence it develop habit of wanting to know what was done to our car and what's the implication.
Wife very jealous.. :76:
Grand
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Went to Lim Tayar Taman Tun Dr Ismail as the car was veering slightly to the left. Was charged RM60 for alignment and RM160 (RM80 each) for adjusting the chamber of both rear wheel. Total comes to about RM233 including govt tax. However the problem still remain. Car still veer to the left. The guy then suggested that I also adjust the front wheel chamber for RM200 (RM100 each). He said the charges are higher as front wheel is more complicated. I thought I read that the chamber of E90 is dead and cannot be adjusted. But not sure about E60. The guy insists that the chamber for E60's front wheel can be adjusted. Anyway did not do it as i think the charges are too expensive. So please beware when going to Lim Tayar.
Grand;698062 said:
Just to share an expensive info at LT TTDI. My E60 have done the front chamber adjustment 4 months ago at LT. There is suppose a fix front chamber.
Below is how they do it:
When you open your bonnet, look at the top mounting of each shock absorber.
You can see 3 bolts. At the bottom of each bolts there are elongated holes (oblonged oval shape), that is meant for left right adjustment(s).
But there is a slight problem before you can adjust the top mounting. When you inspect further next to the 3 bolts there are 2 small holes. One has a pin and another is just hole. Same for L and R.
To remove these pins, just use a sharp object (e.g. phillips-head screwdriver) to punch from the top. This is an eye sore moment as the foreman has to brutally use a big hammer to kang-kang-kang until the pin drop into the shock absorber cover below.
Both pins can't be found on the floor.
Then loosen the 3 bolts on both sides and adjust to the desired L or R.
Before this, my E60 tends to go to the left and I always got to pull the steering slightly to the right.
So the setting is to set 6 bolts to the right of the driver. So the car has the tendency to the right. Now my car is balanced. Left + Right = Happy driver.
This front chamber setting is very minimal only. If your car pull heavily to one side, this might not solve your problem. In my humble opinion.
Before this, I have tried many shops to solve this problem. Change tyre, change rims, change absorbers but still can't get rid of the L
good sharing!
