june_yap;390858 said:
what sort of conversion did you do?
If you can use the boot key to lock and unlock, your central locking module is most probably GM4 which is also similar to E36 model.
BTW, your key is the diamond shape or the squarish type.
Central Locking Kaput..
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what sort of conversion did you do?
If you can use the boot key to lock and unlock, your central locking module is most probably GM4 which is also similar to E36 model.
BTW, your key is the diamond shape or the squarish type.
june_yap;390896 said:
Not familiar with your model or controller but can only a few tips.
1. To eliminate the problem with the keys or its battery, try to lock or unlock with spare key.
If same problem, then the key is not communicating with the central alarm module.
2. You mentioned that you did a conversion, how many module was replaced and which module.
There are about 4 to 5 modules that are interlink to each other. Some will disable/enable engine firing,
some will control gear b/box, door, boot, fuel cover and windows.
You mention that you have lock two times. It look like the deadbolt actuator is acting faster than the unlock actuator.
3. When you press the lock knob on the driver door, did all the doors lock by itself?
4. When you are in the car and all the lock knob are down, did all the door unlocked when you open the driver door?
Sorry for ask so many question as it is quite difficult to diagnose a car problem without actually seeing it.
based on your reply, check the wiring of the deadbolt actuator and the lock actuator wiring. They might be reverse.
Have the mechanic to check the wiring.. It is a tedious work and you will need to download the wiring schematic to trouble shoot it properly. Sorry, I cant help you further as I have limited experience with your model.
Have the mechanic to check the wiring.. It is a tedious work and you will need to download the wiring schematic to trouble shoot it properly. Sorry, I cant help you further as I have limited experience with your model.
525i
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Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator
Jarance,
I am 99% sure that my E34 GM has failed based on your symtoms listed. Your countermeasure No. 4 is interesting as it would be the simplest/cheapest way to repair this. Have you done it? How to know which wire to bypass?
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator
Jarance,
I am 99% sure that my E34 GM has failed based on your symtoms listed. Your countermeasure No. 4 is interesting as it would be the simplest/cheapest way to repair this. Have you done it? How to know which wire to bypass?
525i, do you have the wiring schematic for the door for E34? I think you can download it from somewhere.
For, E36, the colour is black colour.
If you dont know the color, just open your door and look for the deadbolt actuator. It located near the door handle and hiding near the edge. You will have to open the door and remove the back panel. Be careful with the clip as it tend to break easily when you put back the cover. There should be a plastic cover which is stick on by black tar like material.
For, E36, the colour is black colour.
If you dont know the color, just open your door and look for the deadbolt actuator. It located near the door handle and hiding near the edge. You will have to open the door and remove the back panel. Be careful with the clip as it tend to break easily when you put back the cover. There should be a plastic cover which is stick on by black tar like material.
525i
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Ok, I'll give it a try and see how it goes. Is the deadbolt actuator at every door or only at the driver side? So I just remove the wires to this unit and it should be bypassed?
I took out the General Module and everyhing was nice and clean. So I can't do much there.
I took out the General Module and everyhing was nice and clean. So I can't do much there.
525i;391184 said:
The GM module will look fine. It is the relay contact that is having the problem. i.e. worn out due to the constant switching.
I have opened my GM module yesterday and found the same condition as you. The relay is seal and cannot be open without having it to desolder from it based. I left at that as I did not have any problem with my central locking (touch wood).
Anyway, I did a few testing on the output of the module to see which circuit activated what but could not really figured its function. Anyway, it was late and did not proceed further.
Yes the deadbolt is on every doors. If the deadbolt is activated, all doors cannot be open from the inside door handle.
A bit update.. :listen:
1. Location of the GM5 module with the 3 cables connectors removed.
2. Part Number of the module.
3. External View of the Module.
4. View of the cover open showing the PCB
5. View of the exposed GM5 Module card.
Did some testing but only managed to find the pinout for the power windows. However, have not managed to find the pinout for the door.
BTW, the power windows circuits are shorted to negative when the motor is NOT running. One of the lead will goes to positive to open and the 2nd leads will goes to positive to closed. :wink:
1. Location of the GM5 module with the 3 cables connectors removed.
2. Part Number of the module.
3. External View of the Module.
4. View of the cover open showing the PCB
5. View of the exposed GM5 Module card.
Did some testing but only managed to find the pinout for the power windows. However, have not managed to find the pinout for the door.
BTW, the power windows circuits are shorted to negative when the motor is NOT running. One of the lead will goes to positive to open and the 2nd leads will goes to positive to closed. :wink:
mbm8800
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gud day all..
i was having d same prob few month back... unfortunately, i have 2 change the whole central locking device ( it's cum 2gether wit the hazard switch ) coz it's totally kaput resulted from d spillage of my sons susu!!
and it cost me less than RM300 if i'm not mistaken.. not sure lorh coz my wife yang anta to the bengkel...:wink::wink:
cheerss...
i was having d same prob few month back... unfortunately, i have 2 change the whole central locking device ( it's cum 2gether wit the hazard switch ) coz it's totally kaput resulted from d spillage of my sons susu!!
and it cost me less than RM300 if i'm not mistaken.. not sure lorh coz my wife yang anta to the bengkel...:wink::wink:cheerss...
zammie
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Ok guys, now it's my turn to have this problem!
First time (last weekend), I could open the door on second attempt. Second time (on Tue night), it took several minutes for me to get the door open. Right now the doors refuse to open no matter how many times I'm trying!!
Here are the symptoms as I can see them now:
1) Press open, driver door does not unlock. Slight click only, and the lights come on
2) Press open again, other doors do not open too
3) Can open the boot as per normal
4) Can open and close all windows by holding the 'open' and 'lock' buttons
5) After opening the window this way, I still can't open the door via the door handle
6) Car seems to 'lock' as per normal after trying step 1 & 2: Cabin lights go out, side indicators light up once. Button next to ASC switch flashes 10 times quickly then resumes a slow steady pattern.
Jarance, can help diagnose my car before I send it to the workshop? Thanks bro!!
First time (last weekend), I could open the door on second attempt. Second time (on Tue night), it took several minutes for me to get the door open. Right now the doors refuse to open no matter how many times I'm trying!!
Here are the symptoms as I can see them now:
1) Press open, driver door does not unlock. Slight click only, and the lights come on
2) Press open again, other doors do not open too
3) Can open the boot as per normal
4) Can open and close all windows by holding the 'open' and 'lock' buttons
5) After opening the window this way, I still can't open the door via the door handle
6) Car seems to 'lock' as per normal after trying step 1 & 2: Cabin lights go out, side indicators light up once. Button next to ASC switch flashes 10 times quickly then resumes a slow steady pattern.
Jarance, can help diagnose my car before I send it to the workshop? Thanks bro!!
