Sluggish e34

[Faiz]

Noticed for some time my udm gets sluggish (noisy, no pickup) particularly after a traffic jam - about an hour or so. Temp gauge is always at normal. Is the ecu self-adjusing to 'driving style' or is it something else? serviced car recently &veverything seems in order. rgds, faiz

 

[bimmerman]

I have the same problem too but mine is a 520 which is sluggish to begin with. After being caught in a bit of a traffic jam the car gets worse and I hear something like tappet noise. Temperature is always at the half mark. Last year I flushed my radiator fluids and it was a lot better. This year the problem is back. I plan to change my visocus fan clutch and I believe that may be the ticket.

Check your viscous fan if it's up to speed and check your cooling system. It will help but it's common for BMWs to lose power when underhood temperature gets high. BMWs generate a lot of heat underhood and hot air is less dense compared to cold air and combustion suffers hence you lose power. You won't have this problem if you're stuck in a jam and the outside temperature is 25 degrees or lower. One way that will totally solve the problem is to cut a hole in your bonnet and install an airscoop. Guaranteed fix!

 

[Faiz]

Bimmerman

I hear more like a low-pitched whine when the car becomes sluggish. Bled radiator and added cooloant during last service about a month ago. Underhood temp? Perhaps I should stop the car and open the hood lid for a few minutes to let the engine cool and see what happens next. Anyway, cheching the viscous fan/clutch is a good idea (the whine?) and will do this soonest. Thanks and cheers.

Faiz

 

[bimmerman]

I have a whine too but it's a first gear whine (mine's a 5 speed auto by the way). And it whines in stop go traffic all the time. Not sure if you hear the same sound. But if your fan clutch is old then it could be at fault. But if it's the fan clutch giving problems then your coolant temperature will surely rise. But this is not your case so I think it's a underhood temperature problem. Engine oil also plays a part in cooling the engine. I use magnetec and change every 5K. I notice that towards 4K my engine starts to lose power in traffic jams. Then I change oil and all is well again. But if you want to be a little extreme then gills and scoups will definately make a huge difference allowing the heat to escape. I once had a old Merc W123 with a Toyota twin turbocharged engine. Temperature was always above the half mark in jams and the car would lose power. Then I cut a small 6" X 4" opening in the bonnet and fixed a pajero scoop and almost like magic the temperature dropped to 1 quarter mark. Car became powerful too. So this I dare say works! But i've been reluctant to cut up my E34 like that. It would be sacriledge with a Pajero scoop.

 

[lolipo]

guys,

i got a situation. got my car 1 1/2 years back but haven't done anything yet excepet for servicing.

But i find the car rather sluggish...not only after traffic jams but also when overtaking and when climbingthe hills. is ths normal? I've expressed my concern to the mechanic in German Auto Melawati and they said its normal. Please advice me on this, thanx.


lolipo

 

[flash]

Originally posted by lolipo@Nov 17 2005, 09:23 PM
guys,

i got a situation. got my car 1 1/2 years back but haven't done anything yet excepet for servicing.

But i find the car rather sluggish...not only after traffic jams but also when overtaking and when climbingthe hills. is ths normal? I've expressed my concern to the mechanic in German Auto Melawati and they said its normal. Please advice me on this, thanx.


lolipo

Can't expect much from a 2L engine having to cope with a heavy body. I have the same "problem" too. I could either have to live with it or "upgrade" the engine.... :nyehehe: :nyehehe:

 

[lolipo]

really ka flash? haiya...wasted my money only...went to send the car for tuning and what have you but the car still came back like siput. I think i'll save and upgrade.

anyway flash, those OEM's front lights, are they good? I mean, are they bright? coz currently im using those Hella lights but the light are not that bright. Sometimes i wonder, is the lights on or not. Some more, the glass are like frosted. It's killing me.

any advice?

lolipo

 

[flash]

Originally posted by lolipo@Nov 19 2005, 01:02 AM
really ka flash? haiya...wasted my money only...went to send the car for tuning and what have you but the car still came back like siput. I think i'll save and upgrade.

anyway flash, those OEM's front lights, are they good? I mean, are they bright? coz currently im using those Hella lights but the light are not that bright. Sometimes i wonder, is the lights on or not. Some more, the glass are like frosted. It's killing me.

any advice?

lolipo

Sori, don;t know much about the lights.... I am currently sourcing for new front light assemblies. Mine already jammed, stuck and broke :beaten: . Cannot adjust the light beams. Now shooting at the coconut trees.

Also thinking of cleaning the glass, when I have the mood to do it.

 

[E34EuroTouring]

There are times AFTER a service, if the shop did actually pulled the battery, the ECU has been reset. In such a case, you *need* to drive the car hard so that the adaptation parameters in the ECU are *learned* as aggressive, that way your car will be preppy. If you drive like an old man, the car will typically adapt to "old man" style driving which is sluggish.

Of course, this assumes the engine is in good order. Good fan-clutch helps with engine cooling. You see, these BMW engines runs hot to start up with, in a jam situation, it struggles to cool but without flowing air, it tends to heat up 20-25% higher than normal. This may or may not show in your Temp Guage. A good guage will show this inching from 12 oclock to 1 oclock mark, maybe a bit more. IF it passed the 2 oclock mark, it will likely go to RED fast (ie overheating).

There is a way to relieve this, down your windows and off the A/C!. Yes, it is hot for the occupants of the car, but it will keep the temp in check at 12 oclock position. When you OVERHEAT in RED, its too late and you will be stuck for at least 1 hours in the hot sun. Your choice.

If turning off the a/c with windows down is NOT enough to keep the temp in check, you can turn the HEATER on at max. Of course, turn the vends away from you before you become ikan billis!. This has help me get out of overhead situations in the past, luckily at night but a 5 hour jam. I am glad the car did not overheat!.

You can on the AC after you get going. Typically, the heat soak bleeds off within 3 mins of motion at 40Kph or faster.

Good fresh coolant and good quality Engine oil also helps. remember: coolant is 50% BMW coolant and 50% distilled water mix. Thats the ONLY formula to use. It will last 2 years. Topup with distilled water leaving 1.5 inchs of clearance. Do NOT topup full, cos it will leak out under pressure from radiator cap thru the valve there!. You will waste coolant in this case. Have a one litre coolant as spare.

 

[ALBundy]

I am currently using Total Coolant + Water wetter (2 in 1) and very pleased with the results. On recent drives, on downhill descent at Genting and Cameron, I actually noticed the temperature dropped to the 1/4 mark, something which didnt happened before.

 

[Lionel_Koh]

Originally posted by ALBundy@Nov 21 2005, 11:59 AM
I am currently using Total Coolant + Water wetter (2 in 1) and very pleased with the results. On recent drives, on downhill descent at Genting and Cameron, I actually noticed the temperature dropped to the 1/4 mark, something which didnt happened before.

Sorry off topic a bit......My temp always at 1/4 mark.......Just will reac half during traffic jam.....adakah ini normal?????

 

[ALBundy]

M20 and M50 engines have different characteristics. The M20 is very similar to the M40 engines, normal cruising should be below between the 1/4 to the 1/2 mark, whilst the M50 is usually slightly below the 1/2 mark at all times, whether its cruising or stuck in traffic.

 

[Lionel_Koh]

Originally posted by ALBundy@Nov 21 2005, 12:16 PM
M20 and M50 engines have different characteristics. The M20 is very similar to the M40 engines, normal cruising should be below between the 1/4 to the 1/2 mark, whilst the M50 is usually slightly below the 1/2 mark at all times, whether its cruising or stuck in traffic.

Thanks for the infor.........

 

[MONTOYA]

checkup this autor-rx alternative in improving your driving experience. If all else failed, do check up this ARX thingee. it might just save you an expensive repairs or new engine.

 

[geodesy]

Originally posted by Faiz@Nov 12 2005, 01:14 PM
Noticed for some time my udm gets sluggish (noisy, no pickup) particularly after a traffic jam - about an hour or so. Temp gauge is always at normal. Is the ecu self-adjusing to 'driving style' or is it something else? serviced car recently &veverything seems in order.
rgds, faiz

Faiz,
Did the mechanic get the engine steam cleaned or washed? You shud know where I am coming from with the question. Not a common occurence, prob 5/100 engine will get this? :dunno: Not valid if you are still having the sluggish-ness.

Cheers,
Geo

 

[Faiz]

Hey thanks everyone for your views! After Bimmerman, I did hav the fan cluth, belts etc checked. Seem ok. The radiator was bled during the last service and coolant topped up as well. Like Captain America says, heat buildup in the e34 engine compartment might be the culprit becos the problem is not so obvious when I drive with the windows down and air-cond is off.

Geo, yes Ah Wai washed the engine (as he always does) as part of the srvice. Recently, I had the vaccuum hose connecttor under the manifold replaced (was stranded at the office until midlight last week because the engine stalled immediately after start!). I'm wondering if the loose connector all this while could have caused power loss on and off? During the connector replacement the mechanic also used carb cleaner to srvice the AFM (?) underthe manifold. Now the car seems to perform better...

Anyway, I'm beginning to understand the udm engine better. May be I'll also also try out Montoya's 'ARX thingee' to desludge the engine. But again, will the deep cleaning cause leaks in more palces than one? It happened to my volvo 240 - leaks sprung up in 2/3 places esp around the oil seals aftyer using an engine flush product (STP brand, I think)...
Rgds to all. Faiz

 

[Mikeong]

Try using synthetic oils it might help.

 

[Faiz]

Mikeong
Been using synthetic oil for the engine all along. is there a synthetic/semi-syn/mineral choice for all other oils used in the udm e,g, the autotranny oil? Never thought about this before. Cheers.

 

[fabianyee]

Originally posted by Faiz@Dec 1 2005, 01:05 AM
.....May be I'll also also try out Montoya's 'ARX thingee' to desludge the engine. But again, will the deep cleaning cause leaks in more palces than one? It happened to my volvo 240 - leaks sprung up in 2/3 places esp around the oil seals aftyer using an engine flush product (STP brand, I think)...

in most old engines, BMW included, the sludge build-up could have been 'plugging' the leaks around the various seals. So when u desludge the engine once in a blue moon, it might cause the leaks u mentioned. However, if u desludge frequently, then it may work to keep the engine efficient.

 

[IcyCold]

I dunno bout you guys but I had the same whining sound problem and experienced sluggishness on my E34 520. Especially during cold starts or during long traffic jams. The air con also goes hot when its stationary for a while.

After spending some time checking it with my mechanic... believe it or not it was the air con man next door who spotted the problem.

All along it was the air con compressor.... Although it still works but according to the air con man its dying or going to die.

I was a bit doudtful at first but I thought what the heck and changed my compressor cos he had a recon 1 lying around... And oh yea it worked man.