Need Advice... Battery flat or Alternator bad.

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azam318

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Hi All sifus, need to ask something. How to define, whether the battery kong or alternatorin bad condition due to engine couldn't start.Observation:1) After turn on the ignition, all the indicators at the panel not light up at all2) The engine not even crank3) No clicking sound after turn on the ignition4) After did jumper to the car, the engine running fine.Action taken:1) Recently, I had bought new battery Yokohama DIN66 (maintenace free)2) The engine can be run as per normal after changed the new battery3) The battery only last for 3 days then my engine couldn't start again4) After did jumper to the battery, the engine was running fine5) After shutting down the engine, its back to the earlier stage, the egine couldn't start.Izit the problem because of the alternator faulty which is its not charging up backthe battery? Appreciate some advices. Thanks,azam318
 
Azam ...in ur case i think is ur alternator kong ......

So wat u can do now is .....

1.Send ur battery to recharge since its just 3 days old .........

2.After charging, put in the battery to ur car ......

3.Start the engine, after the engine started , remove the - negative cable from the battery

4.If ur car engine still running meaning the alternator still okey but if ur car engine die immediately once the - negative cable removed , then ur alternator is kong .......

If want to save ur time , just use another battery to test instead of sending the old one to recharge ...........

Good luck .........
 
Lionel_Koh;472212 said:
Azam ...in ur case i think is ur alternator kong ......

So wat u can do now is .....

1.Send ur battery to recharge since its just 3 days old .........

2.After charging, put in the battery to ur car ......

3.Start the engine, after the engine started , remove the - negative cable from the battery

4.If ur car engine still running meaning the alternator still okey but if ur car engine die immediately once the - negative cable removed , then ur alternator is kong .......

If want to save ur time , just use another battery to test instead of sending the old one to recharge ...........

Good luck .........

Will try the method. Thanks, Bro Lionel.
 
just use a voltmeter to check. When car running, the voltage should be 13.6 to 14.5VDC at the battery terminal.

The battery is 12VDC nominal voltage. To charge the battery, the output from the alternator should be at 1.2 times the nominal voltage. i.e. 14.4VDC.

Since you battery is NEW, you can take it back to the shop to check. New battery at the shop does not means it is good. Battery also have a self life just like your tyres. If they are kept too long in the store, it will loose its charge.

Just make sure that all electronic equipment is OFF when you do the "disconnect" negative test. If the alternator is faulty, you WILL fry your equipment due to over voltage. (slip rings faulty)
 
According to my customer who's a battery manufacturer, YES, battery is actually like fresh goods. The moment they are manufacturered, the clock start ticking.

So guys, pick the latest possible manufacturing date if possible.
 
Actually it is easy to check. Any battery shop will do it for you. Jarance is right. The battery shop will use the meter to check the state of the battery or the state of the alternator. The shop will be able to tell you immediately.

So it can be your old battery, new battery, the alternator or the circuitry that prevents a good alternator from charging your battery .

There is another possible cause i.e. there is a short in the circuit causing your battery to be discharged. My boss once had it with his brand new Honda Accord and it took a technician from Japan to detect the real cause of the faulty. There was a trickle discharge and he found it difficult to start the car if left undriven over the weekend.
 
Can use voltmeter put it at the battery to measure the voltage. At idle, meter should read at least 14V. Switch on all the lights and aircon and open the doors and boot so all the interior lights also on. Then measure again, if it drops, then time to service alternator. If you've tested voltage while car is idling with engine on and supply is ok, switch off engine and test the battery's voltage. After 30mins, test the battery again, if the voltage drops, most probably the battery's fault.
 
it's the alternator ..... ..but then pls also look at the connections at the bat terminal and also there is a terminal socket on the alternator ...

if one of these is loose too may set you back with such problem ....
 
Hi All Sifus, thanks for giving the great ideas and advices. Just now, I did some checking
on the battery connections. And I've found out the negative connector with improper
tighten(dry joint) which is not tight enough. So, I re-tighten the -ve connector and now
my engine can be start with no problem, seem like its become a normal engine. So, I
decided to do the voltage measurement using the Digital MM as shown as below.

Findings;
While engine not start, the voltage shows as 12.63VDC. Then after start the engine without
any loading the reading shows as 13.50VDC not even reach at 14VDC. The reading will drop
as 13.10VDC after all the electronic parts on 'ON' stage such as switch on all the lights and
air-cond, all the doors and boot open, all the interior lights is on.

After done the measurement, can I conclude that, my alternator is not in good condition
which is need to be change? If yes, how much does it cost me? Is it ok if I get the part
from the chop shop or the recond one? If NO, is it the faulty because of the -ve connector loosen? Pls advice.

Thanks;
azam318

Voltage measurement while engine not running
EngineIdle.jpg


Voltage measurement during engine running without loading
Enginestart_woloading.jpg


Voltage measurement with high loading: air-cond on, all lights on, door open
Withloading.jpg


Voltage measurement: After left the car idle about 45mins(engine not start)
Idle45mins.jpg
 
me just sold mine for rm 100 nieee ....you missed it ...

get a recond one or perhaps get it from ppl that's selling off theirs .....
 
azam318;472289 said:
Hi All Sifus, thanks for giving the great ideas and advices. Just now, I did some checking
on the battery connections. And I've found out the negative connector with improper
tighten(dry joint) which is not tight enough. So, I re-tighten the -ve connector and now
my engine can be start with no problem, seem like its become a normal engine. So, I
decided to do the voltage measurement using the Digital MM as shown as below.

Findings;
While engine not start, the voltage shows as 12.63VDC. Then after start the engine without
any loading the reading shows as 13.50VDC not even reach at 14VDC. The reading will drop
as 13.10VDC after all the electronic parts on 'ON' stage such as switch on all the lights and
air-cond, all the doors and boot open, all the interior lights is on.

After done the measurement, can I conclude that, my alternator is not in good condition
which is need to be change? If yes, how much does it cost me? Is it ok if I get the part
from the chop shop or the recond one? If NO, is it the faulty because of the -ve connector loosen? Pls advice.

Thanks;
azam318

Voltage measurement while engine not running
EngineIdle.jpg


Voltage measurement during engine running without loading
Enginestart_woloading.jpg


Voltage measurement with high loading: air-cond on, all lights on, door open
Withloading.jpg


Voltage measurement: After left the car idle about 45mins(engine not start)
Idle45mins.jpg

Have you check with the engine rev up to 2000 rpm? What is the voltage measured?

13.5 VDC look OK if the engine rev is idling.

btw, nice fluke meter.. you electrical engineer?
 
Try servicing the alternator. The other day, when I did my compressor, I enquired about alternator servicing and the charges to service the alternator, changing the carbon and bearings is around Rm300+, can't recall the actual figure, cud be Rm380 or so or less...I asked for E39, but I think should be about the same...all in including w/ship. Shop at Sunway, T&T. When I checked my alternator at idling at 750rpm, the reading was 15V, using sunwa analogue, but i still haven't use the digital meter.
 
jaleeks23;472325 said:
Try servicing the alternator. The other day, when I did my compressor, I enquired about alternator servicing and the charges to service the alternator, changing the carbon and bearings is around Rm300+, can't recall the actual figure, cud be Rm380 or so or less...I asked for E39, but I think should be about the same...all in including w/ship. Shop at Sunway, T&T. When I checked my alternator at idling at 750rpm, the reading was 15V, using sunwa analogue, but i still haven't use the digital meter.
bro, can PM me the contact no for the worksyop?or the direction to the shop..
 
ICEMAN 13;472292 said:
me just sold mine for rm 100 nieee ....you missed it ...

get a recond one or perhaps get it from ppl that's selling off theirs .....

Ooooo! gosh... missed the good stuff....
 
Used digital meter to test finally.
1) Battery voltage without starting engine = 12.63V
2) Voltage when engine is running at idle = 14.08V
3) Voltage when engine is idle, aircond at max, all lights on (inside and outside) = 13.86V

Couldn't try revving the engine above 2000 rpm cause i was alone, will try when I have someone with me in future.
 
jaleeks23;472844 said:
Used digital meter to test finally.
1) Battery voltage without starting engine = 12.63V
2) Voltage when engine is running at idle = 14.08V
3) Voltage when engine is idle, aircond at max, all lights on (inside and outside) = 13.86V

Couldn't try revving the engine above 2000 rpm cause i was alone, will try when I have someone with me in future.

Actually you can rev higher if alone..

Use the triangle blue box and jammed it between the seat and the accelerator. Move the seat forward to increase speed.

I also use this method to check my brake light..

BTW, the output looks NORMAL.
 
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