My SQL Setup Plan....

[xcrave]

For all sifu and Yoda enlightenment comments....Im planning to redo my SQL setup Do you have any recommendation for my now newly acquired item???http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19092&d=1304353397BTW Front staging are still under consideration was goin to get some nice Focal or equivalent item... hope got someone wanna part with their nice set... Front Amp = 2 chn 150 WRMS (Bridged) @ 4 ohm [ 4 chn @ 75w RMS @4ohm)Rear Class D Mono = 320W RMS @ 4 ohm Things to decide are in the picture... hope somone could help.... or anything WTS?

 

[xcrave]

BTW the rear passive are just filler sound will fade it out...

 

[aidilj]

Nice plan for the audio upgrade. Perhaps you know this already, for SQL over SPL go for sealed sub, this seems to be consistent throughout the net.

For the fuse amperage, get the peak power (not RMS) of all the amps, add them together and use P=IV formula to get the amperage.

Cheers

 

[erica34]

at that power level, i think the IDQ would suit for SQL setup. but that was quite a few years back and not sure what's out there these days.

 

[erica34]

rear fills work quite nicely if you have decent speakers powered by amps. when i was powering my budget cdt comps from head-unit power, they were often faded out as you mentioned. but after switching the quality amps (same as main speakers but ran passive instead of active) and powered by same amp as main speakers, i have rear fills on all the time. same speakers, same amp so that sound characteristics from rear fill blend well with sound from main speakers.

 

[xcrave]

@aidilj ... RMS is safer to assume since overall amp =

XA1000 Monoblock Class D @ 640W --> 320 RMS @4ohm
http://www.eclipse-web.com/us/amp/xa1000.html

EA4100 4 chn A/B 4 ohm stable amP @ 400W ---> 75W RMS x 4 @ 4ohm
http://www.eclipse-web.com/us/amp/ea4000.html

TOTAL = 1040W MAX / 720W rms @ 4ohm

I would depend more on RMS bro since its the most stable applied amperage for speaker and it helps me to decide which speaker i could drive with such RMS
Bridging the front amp for 150 since i want a nice SQL front staging and rear will be enough from my 50W RMS Alpine 9887 HU power.

@erica34
Going pure Active, since amp-ed rear will distort staging... i even contemplating to take it all off... or just do sub passive from the back... maybe 2x 10" cone placed at the center of the rear board to increase subsonic vibration wakakak...


BTW i am using sealed 1.24-1.5 Cubic feet box with a good wood i can find... maybe those old school chip board speaker box, i have seen in my uncle house serve good purpose Those MDF board are just terrible arent they?

 

[aidilj]

Hi xcrave,

Use peak power to get correct value of the fuse. Of course use RMS when matching speakers with amplifier. The peak power is used in calculation so the fuse can accomodate current surges when the amplifier needs it. Exceeding the peak/max current means something is wrong with the system already. Hope this makes sense.

Cheers

 

[aidilj]

further reading

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/newsletter/fuse_size.htm

 

[erica34]

@erica34
Going pure Active, since amp-ed rear will distort staging... i even contemplating to take it all off... or just do sub passive from the back... maybe 2x 10" cone placed at the center of the rear board to increase subsonic vibration wakakak...

for me, going active was also just to have something to play with and also a lot of the car audio guys on local scene back then were going active... after fiddling around with it (convenient with alpine pxa and rux controller) you'll eventually get bored and setup won't necessarily sound better than a high quality pair of comps professionally installed in custom kicks and driven passive by suitably high quality and powered amp(s). i ran 3-way active in custom kicks powered by a brace of amps. imaging and staging was nice but for practical reasons, eventually switched to current setup in stock speaker position. front active and rear passive, both boston spz reference and i enjoy the setup more. doubt you'll get really low gut moving bass with a pair of 10s in free-air set up.

 

[xcrave]

agreed with both of you... after much thought i decided to go hybrid... active passive rear...

BTW the 10" cone was just a dummy from my current rear board... no drivers just the cone to further enhance subsonic vibration from the sealed amp in the box... hear it from somewhere... neways...

Confirm goin for some Morel 2 ways Tempo should be enough i guess and i wont be bridging untill i got higher than 150w RMS @4w... this amp are just too powerful in the end