E36 Bushing Replacement

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anxious

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E36 Bushing Replacement Ok. My latest project is that I'm thinking of replacing the all the bushing on my E36 soon. My reading thus far has revealed that fresh new bushes will made the [as "good as new" as Lee36328 will testify. So guys pls share your experiences. The main bushes seem to be:- i)Control Arm Bushii) Rear Trailing Arm Bush iii) Sway Link/Anti Roll Bar Bush Anything else? What's the difference b/w standard vs M3 bushes?(I am not interested in poly utherane bushes) I believe this diagram shows the location of the bushes that can be changed. http://www.nivek-styling.co.uk/pdfs/...3%20series.pdf So guys any comments are most welcome. Thanks.
 
My further research has revealed that apart from:-

i) Control Arm Bush
ii) Rear Trailing Arm Bush
iii) Sway Link/Anti Roll Bar Bush

A suspension rework would also entail :-

iv) Rear Control Rrm Bushing( 2 pcs outer & 2 pcs inner)
( Note: I think this is aka Rear Beam Mounting Bush/ Subframe Bush, pls confirm)

v) Ball Joints (F)

Anything else? ( I changed the absorbers & absorber mounting earlier this year)


Thanks
 
Thanks. i've changed the engine and gearbox mounting and also the tie rods.

Now I am toying b/w OEM ordinary bushes(Lemforder) vs M3 (Lemforder) bushes.

Someone sent me the following comments:-


"I've done the front control arm bushings (actually, my technician did
them a couple years ago before I started doing things myself). I have
not had to do the RTABs yet.

The M3 bushings will work, provided you get the correct parts. Some M3
front control arm bushings are "offset" units, meaning the inner sleeve
is offset to one side. That was used, IIRC, on the 95 M3 to change
caster. That caster change was integrated with the control arm in 96+
and they went back to a concentric bushing design like on the non-M
cars. If you put offset bushings on your 325 with the standard control
arms you'll upset front suspension geometry.

Keep in mind that the M3 parts will not necessarily live longer than the
non-M parts, and in fact will transmit road surface defects more readily
into the steering and the rear end. Be sure that is what you want. I
would consider replacement of the RTABs with M parts more so than the
front CABs because deflection of the bushing can have a dramatic effect
on toe in heavy cornering."


What do you guys think about M3 bushes?

 
Assuming the M3 bush is harder, you will feel it in the steering, and vibrations from the tire on uneven road surfaces will be transmitted more clearly, much like using harder or lower profile tires.

Otherwise, it's just a caster change. I changed my camber and caster with the addition of camber plates. I don't know what the writer means by 'dramatic change in toe during cornering.' My toes are where they have always been, all ten of them, thank you very much.

No harm experimenting.
 
try this link bro:

http://www.realoem.com

very detail diagram and description on the parts.. complete diagram of all the bushings, rubber mountings that you need to know... found it very2 helpful.. and also complete diagram on other parts too..

enjoy~
 
Go for the M3 OEM offset ones, you won't regret it. For the ARB, standard rubber oem ones are the best already. RTABs - get the standard ones, but there is an improved design type somewhere that has metal sleeves for quicker replacement.

If you stick with M3 oem offset rubber instead of poly, the ride NVH quality will feel the same, although the bush may wear out quicker because there is "less rubber" on one side of the bush. Just remember to get a good 4-wheel alignment done, including caster.

This is the reason I went for poly on my e36, in fact my car already had oem offset rubber from factory but I went poly despite the harshness to get even more caster and in fact, an extra 5-10mm extra wheelbase (used Powerflex bushes, front wheels pushed forwards slightly).

Longevity wise, during movement the oem rubber ones rub against the round metal end of the lower control arm so they need to be greased often to last longer... whereas on a poly there are two halves on each end, they rub against each other and contain tiny "pockets" that will hold grease between them.

Handling wise, I felt the difference immediately. I'm really particular about wheel/suspension geometry and steering response so the handling felt noticeably improved in every way especially around high speed bends and during quick direction changes (less understeery) except for a slightly heavier feel and a slight background noise on rougher roads (as though your window has a gap somewhere but there isn't!).

But I have to say, unless you drive the car hard (or track it) and have upgraded suspension to match, there is not much point because the E36 has a very slow steering rack ratio so most that little improvement is lost under regular driving.

Hope this was useful :)
---
 
anxious dude,
sorry for not calling you back the other day, was busy with something and forgot about the bush replacement thing. Been quite busy lately.
How's the progress of getting those rubber bushes replaced. I am interested as well. BTW, one question on your tint film replacement, did the rear heater line came off when the old film is being removed. I am thinking of redoing mine.
cheers.
 
8080pbmw;272467 said:
anxious dude,
sorry for not calling you back the other day, was busy with something and forgot about the bush replacement thing. Been quite busy lately.
How's the progress of getting those rubber bushes replaced. I am interested as well. BTW, one question on your tint film replacement, did the rear heater line came off when the old film is being removed. I am thinking of redoing mine.
cheers.

Its ok I have been quite busy myself lately. Must clear my work b4 the Xmas break.

Anyways as for the bushes I havent got to it yet. Asidan thks for ur input.

As for tinting, neither hv I done that.

So far I've only managed to get the armrest( thanks to Lionel) and the tail pipe extensions( from AB).

Merry Xmas.
 
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