Cockpit backlights won't turn off!! Serious help needed!

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shaunng

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Hello guys,I've started a thread http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33156 documenting my restoration of an E36. I would have posted this question there but due to the urgency of the issue, I've decided to start a new thread. Here's the story so far:-Since I got the car 3 weeks ago, there were a few times when I could not start the car. Everytime the car won't start, a simple jumpstart remedy would do the trick. At first I suspected it was because of the old car battery. However, I've discovered tonight, to my horror, that the reason behind the car's battery going flat was because all the backlights of the power window button, hazard light button, air con control dials and the meters will not turn off! I also detected a burning smell. I've tried the following:-1) Starting the engine again and then turning it off - same thing occurs, and there will be a buzz coming from the back of the meters if the key is still in the ignition2) Taking the respective fuses out and putting them back in - same thing occurs3) Using the old-fashioned 'giving the mentioned parts a few whacks with the fist' - same, no changesI suspect that this problem is of an intermittent nature as it explains why sometimes the car would start normally (battery not flat) and sometimes the car won't start at all unless assisted via jumpstart (battery flat).I was thinking of sending the car to a specialist but I just realised that my diagnostic socket or whatever we call it (the socket that has lots of holes near the fusebox) is not working so sending it to a specialist may not yield favorable results.Has anyone experienced this? Is there an alternative to diagnose the problem without the diagnostic socket?
 
change the light switch. if there is buzzer when the ignition key is switch off, it means that you forgot to off the headlamp light. Since you HAVE off the switch, the headlamp switch is faulty.
 
Dunno how BMW wiring works but all JDM the cabin light is activated by closing the earth circuit at the switch located at all doors, boot and bonnet as one method for illumination. Maybe one of the switch is faulty or the wire has un-skin and touches the ground.

The other method is the permanent "ON" switch located at the cabin light and that too is actually a switch for ground contact. If that too has malfunction and contacted the ground, viola! Your cabin on permanently!

Hope this help!
 
The key word is

"1) Starting the engine again and then turning it off - same thing occurs, and there will be a buzz coming from the back of the meters if the key is still in the ignition".
 
sachseelan;508230 said:
brake/light switch - under steering, inside dashboard.. RM90/=

No lar. How do you explain the buzzer sound when the ignition is OFF and headlamp switch is OFF.
The headlamp switch have many cams to activate many circuits. One of the cam is broken. You can confirm the problem by turning the switch a bit to the left (anti-clockwise). If the buzzer did NOT buzz, then it is the switch problem.


Change this. This pic show for E46 but it the same for E36 without the auto position.
LightSwitch.jpg
 
it was quite a nightmare when this switches fail.. i changed one at a time until everything was back to normal.. first the light switch itself as it was kinda losing grip, then the brake switch which was causing theproblem to be intermittent..

i suggest if ur mech cannot diagnose, just change both the switches to be safe, anyway this is a common problem wt the e36... very hard to pin-point the failure tho.. intermittent are usually electronics starting to fail..

WCS - someone has tempered the wiring, the burning smell is disturbing, knowing bimmers like fire ;)
 
are you using aftermarket alarm/security?

are ur central locking all in working order? if yes, then eliminate the brake switch problem as brake switch failure will also drive ur locking mechanism banana!! if its the stock one!
 
jarance;508180 said:
change the light switch. if there is buzzer when the ignition key is switch off, it means that you forgot to off the headlamp light. Since you HAVE off the switch, the headlamp switch is faulty.

bro....what do u meant buzzer? is it same like my waja..if i took of the keys.but forgot to switch off the light...it will buzz? is e36 have this function? my car not la bro...
 
nando;508331 said:
bro....what do u meant buzzer? is it same like my waja..if i took of the keys.but forgot to switch off the light...it will buzz? is e36 have this function? my car not la bro...

I think buzzer is a standard.

for e36, buzzer goes On for about 5 seconds if forget to off headlamp after ignition is OFF.

for e46, buzzer goes On for about 5 seconds if forget to off headlamp after ignition is OFF.:top:
and buzzer goes ON if forget to release handbrake when car is moving.. :stupid:
 
Hmm..I think the light switch is faulty then. However, something even weirder happened in the duration from this morning to this afternoon. Here's the story:-

The lights were permanently on last night and I had no idea what to do so I just left it on. To my surprise, the car could still start in the morning. Then, I travelled from Cheras to Damansara Intan. From Damansara Intan, I travelled to Damansara Uptown. After leaving the car engine off for 20 minutes or so (I forgot to check if the lights were permanently on), the car won't start. Normal routine, got my friend to jumpstart the car for me. After that, it was smooth sailing all the way.

Questions:-
1) How on earth did the car start with the lights permanently on the whole night?
2) In connection to question 1), why, in the name of all that is holy and pure, did the car fail to start after only 20 minutes when I turned off the engine in Damansara Uptown?

When the car failed to start, I observed the following:-
1) With the key in the ignition and turned on, all the normal lights were on ie: parking light, engine oil light, battery light etc. - this could mean that the battery is NOT flat.
2) During the jumpstart, the car failed to start via jumpstarting from the battery (from the car trunk). I could only start when connecting the cables to the front of the car (under the hood).

However, when I reached home, I noticed that the battery wires were loose. ARRGHHH I'm really confused! :102:
 
is the buzzing sound present when the key is removed from the ignition?
if so, it is normal to have a buzzing/humming noise coming from the a/c control or dash area. it has to do with the a/c vents closing or something like that.
 
Questions:-
1) How on earth did the car start with the lights permanently on the whole night?
It not strange. The interior light does not consume much power. Lead acid battery can sometimes self re-generate if left unused for about 1 hour if there is sufficient charge. I have encountered that sometime the car cannot start with weak battery but after one hour I can crank and start the car after I shutdown all accessories and aircon.
Call it luck, I dont know


2) In connection to question 1), why, in the name of all that is holy and pure, did the car fail to start after only 20 minutes when I turned off the engine in Damansara Uptown?
Maybe like what you say, the battery terminal is loose. When the termial is loose, you have a bad contact. Bad contact create high resistance. You need about 200 amp current to crank the starter and you are not going to do it if the battery contact are loose.

When the car failed to start, I observed the following:-
1) With the key in the ignition and turned on, all the normal lights were on ie: parking light, engine oil light, battery light etc. - this could mean that the battery is NOT flat.
Loose battery terminal is the cause. The voltage is OK but the current is not OK for the starter which draws about 200 amp during cranking.

2) During the jump start, the car failed to start via jump starting from the battery (from the car trunk). I could only start when connecting the cables to the front of the car (under the hood).
Again, this have something to do with resistance. When jump start, not all the current is drawn from the other car battery. Your car battery also assist in contributing some current. As your battery is loose, power cannot drawn directly from your battery but have to rely solely from the other car. As the battery is located behind, you are looking at the resistance of the jumper wire and the resistance of the wire from rear (battery compartment) to the front of the car. The total resistance may sometime prevent the current from delivering to the starter.

However, when I reached home, I noticed that the battery wires were loose. ARRGHHH I'm really confused!
Dont be confused. Just re-tighten all terminals at the positive and negative terminals. Apply a thin layer of grease on the terminals to prevent white oxidation from forming after tightening. While you at it, check the acid level in the battery if you are using lead acid battery. Add distill water if the acid level is low.

Moral of the story is Do regular maintenance to enjoy the car. :top:

or. In your case, have a car to follow you to jump start whenever you drive your car. :eek:
 
nando;508386 said:
wah...my car doesnt bunyi at all....

That because you have replace your engine and most probably the person who did the conversion may have NOT wired it properly.
 
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