My right hand side front tyre castor in out. it's located abit back compared to my left hand side tyre. the different is about 1cm. It's possible to adjust back the castor?Is this castor location will cause vibration ducing cruising about 90 -100km/h?Normally what cause this castor to run out of it original position?Please help.Thanks in advance.
Castor can be adjusted?
- Thread starter Bp88
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M30revival
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The only way to adjust the castor is to treat it as if it has an accident before. It got to be pulled back to spec.
So I suspect your car might have some front end impact before on the right side.
Don't think castor will cause vibration at that speed. For remedy start with on wheel balancing.
saat
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The correct answer is that there is no adjustment castor in almost all cars (unless you have installed aftermarket rose joints).
And yes the only way that castor can be corrected is for the car and its suspension components to be literally pull back into shape. This is costly and should only be done after it has been determined that indeed the castor has gone off due to a damage to the chassis.
The only way that castor to go completely off is after a severe impact which caused the chassis to be bent.
An impact can also cause the suspension compoment to be bent or shifted or damaged although the chassis is still straight. This may give rise to a shift in the vehicle alignment.
It is always good practise to eliminate the obvious and simple faults first before jumping to the worst. You must take care before concluding that the difference in castor between your LH and RH is 1 cm. It could be the datum from which you measure is incorrect or not true or it is your RH that is off. The advise to take it for alignment check is very good.
In my case, I detected a vibration at 100kph and a pull to one side. I sent it for balancing and alignment. It lasted only for 3 days and this time, the vibration started at 70kph. Checked and found the rim to be bent. Fixed the rims and there was still some vibration.
In the end it was the lower A arm. The rear mounting bush was moving fore and aft. Changed the A arms - Problem resolved.
And yes the only way that castor can be corrected is for the car and its suspension components to be literally pull back into shape. This is costly and should only be done after it has been determined that indeed the castor has gone off due to a damage to the chassis.
The only way that castor to go completely off is after a severe impact which caused the chassis to be bent.
An impact can also cause the suspension compoment to be bent or shifted or damaged although the chassis is still straight. This may give rise to a shift in the vehicle alignment.
It is always good practise to eliminate the obvious and simple faults first before jumping to the worst. You must take care before concluding that the difference in castor between your LH and RH is 1 cm. It could be the datum from which you measure is incorrect or not true or it is your RH that is off. The advise to take it for alignment check is very good.
In my case, I detected a vibration at 100kph and a pull to one side. I sent it for balancing and alignment. It lasted only for 3 days and this time, the vibration started at 70kph. Checked and found the rim to be bent. Fixed the rims and there was still some vibration.
In the end it was the lower A arm. The rear mounting bush was moving fore and aft. Changed the A arms - Problem resolved.
Thank for the advise.
I think I'll drive my car to my mechanic place and do thoroughly check out on the arm and suspension component before proceed to do wheel balancing.
I already did on wheel balancing but it still vibrate.
There is 2 probability.
1. The tyre shop did't do a good job or
2. The front arm is in bad shape or suspension component is in bad shape.
Hope can solve the problem ASAP and enjoy the ride.
Additional info...I already check all the chassis and front panel of the car. there is no sign of accident before. A mechanic also check and confirm it's no accident before.
But why the castor position is different between left and right.
But why the castor position is different between left and right.
Jipster
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FYI.... for the E30 and E36, an offset lower arm bush is available to increase castor (bring front wheel forward).
The rubber bushings on these offset bushes are apparently harder and are also available in PU from powerflex (UK) and super pro (Aus).
the offset bushes were originally designed for the E30 M3. There is also the 'eye ball' type bushing available from Tree House Racing (US) which is supposed to be an improvement over the original off set design 9also applicable to both E30 and E36).
PS please correct me if I am wrong ok
PPS the offset bush is not designed to correct castor problems but as a performance upgrade
The rubber bushings on these offset bushes are apparently harder and are also available in PU from powerflex (UK) and super pro (Aus).
the offset bushes were originally designed for the E30 M3. There is also the 'eye ball' type bushing available from Tree House Racing (US) which is supposed to be an improvement over the original off set design 9also applicable to both E30 and E36).
PS please correct me if I am wrong ok
PPS the offset bush is not designed to correct castor problems but as a performance upgrade
kevster30
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The caster of the passenger frnt wheel has to be slightly forward or else the car will never track straight. All our roads in Malaysia are inclined to the left and hence ther will be more force exerted on the left side of the car. Just take a look at all the continental cars and you will see that this is quite evident, especially on Mercs. If both your caster is even, the car will pull to the left ALL the time.
As for your vibration problems, do look into you lower arm ball joints, bushings, tie-rod ends, wheel bearings and even your absorber mountings. If any one of these are on the way out, no amolunt of balancing at your local tyre shop will solve your vibration.
saat
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All very good advise before you start putting your car on the rack. A castor problem would not cause vibration.
Do the alignment first. Make sure the mechanic does not adjust it beyond the correct setting just to cure the problem. Examine the printout and the data sheet.
If it doesnt cure the problem, take it to a good mechanic and let him have a look at the suspension. Like I said, mine turned out to be the lower A arms but it could just as well have been the tierod, the links, the shock mounts or subframe.
Do the alignment first. Make sure the mechanic does not adjust it beyond the correct setting just to cure the problem. Examine the printout and the data sheet.
If it doesnt cure the problem, take it to a good mechanic and let him have a look at the suspension. Like I said, mine turned out to be the lower A arms but it could just as well have been the tierod, the links, the shock mounts or subframe.
flash
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BP88, I can relate your problem.... my Silver Scrap had the same problem too, worse even. Some of the forummers know what I went through to get it right (though not 100% right).
When I got my car, my right front wheel was clearly out of whack. At full lock turns, the wheel would touch the rear of the wheel well. The left wheel was ok though. Changed some of the suspension parts, which needed attention anyway, nope, problem still persists. Checked with some mechs and tyre shop, some evidence of accident to the front. Right fender are out of whack but the chassis is straight and ok.
Ok, traced problem to bent subframe. Changed that and voila, ok again, though the right wheel is a bit back by 0.5cm compared to the left. Car still tracks straight though.
There is another way but would need fab's help.... :nyehehe: :nyehehe:
When I got my car, my right front wheel was clearly out of whack. At full lock turns, the wheel would touch the rear of the wheel well. The left wheel was ok though. Changed some of the suspension parts, which needed attention anyway, nope, problem still persists. Checked with some mechs and tyre shop, some evidence of accident to the front. Right fender are out of whack but the chassis is straight and ok.
Ok, traced problem to bent subframe. Changed that and voila, ok again, though the right wheel is a bit back by 0.5cm compared to the left. Car still tracks straight though.
There is another way but would need fab's help.... :nyehehe: :nyehehe:
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