Buying from used car dealer

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crusher

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Dec 11, 2004
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What is the experience you have buying from car dealer?I read most advertisements "buy and drive", meaning no major issues with car. If later develop any problem, can still go back to dealer? I'm afraid they will not care once they sold the car. Or can take the issue to small claims tribunal? Any experience with this? If dealer warranty, normally for how long?
 
I have only purchase 1 car from a dealer. My other cars were all from the owners directly. However stories from family & friends who purchased from used cars almost always end up with a lemon (despite the alleged "excellent" condition by the dealer).

Most important rule. CHECKINSPECTDOUBLE CHECK & INSPECT. I suggest you bring along a mechanic (who either a specialist in that particular make/model) AND/OR a insurance adjuster (for accident damages).

Why go through the trouble of claiming when you can ensure you do not buy a lemon in the first place?
 
a bunch of suckers ...i would say ..... nothing is firm even if you've paid a deposit, unless you ensure them to write it BLACK and WHITE ...for which car , car bearing number , how long they will hold the depo , what happen if loan rejected ....
 
ICEMAN 13;714243 said:
a bunch of suckers ...i would say ..... nothing is firm even if you've paid a deposit, unless you ensure them to write it BLACK and WHITE ...for which car , car bearing number , how long they will hold the depo , what happen if loan rejected ....

Hi,
I have bought many cars from dealers. Not many are honest but there were very few honest ones I have found.
My E39 was bought from a used car dealer along Jalan Genting Klang and my salesman was good and did everything he could to ensure the car is ok. In other words he was honest.
He even admitted that the car may have been clocked even though he stopped short of admitting that he dealership did it.

But like Iceman said, you need to do your due diligence. Buying used doesn't matter from owners or dealers, you must do your homework, test as many cars as you can and also check its history.

The latter is easier if the car was sold from local dealers such as AB,Quill or Ingress/Sapura. Very hard to check the service history or even to verify the last mileage when the car last went in for a service if you are buying used imports.

But buying from dealers are sometimes easier if you want to trade-in your car without going through the hassle of selling it yourself. Nonetheless you must choose your dealers carefully. Reputable ones are also sometimes not really honest when it comes to used car unless it is an approved used such as the AB premium selection.

But you also pay a higher price than the outside dealers as they will throw in a good warranty and only the low mileage examples are traded.
 
My usual practice on buying a used car from dealership:

1) As mentioned above, bring a specialist along or bring the car to the specialist that you trust. Some dealerships don't allow this, don't buy from them.
2) Negotiate by telling them you want all those faults fixed by YOUR specialist before taking the car at a specific price.
3) Allocate another 10-15% of the car value in your bank account for further repairs.
4) If #3 doesn't get used in the next couple of months after purchase, sink it into mods! :top:
 
can any sifu recommend any specialist workshop in pj area that provide inspection service for 2nd hand bmw unit at dealer site... ? pls advise.
 
I normally go by a few principles:

- do not believe the mileage reading on the dashboard, most like likely it is tampered and not original.
- Check for original parts, i.e. headlights, taillights, body parts, some are OEM/Taiwan fakes.
- Check underlying carpet and walls to check for previous accident areas, normally you can tell from the not-so-perfect repair.
- Check undercarriage for leaks and insist on dealer to give you at least 1 month's warranty on leaks or malfunctions.
- Most cars that has good/new batteries are normally swapped with old ones, so be prepared to change them soon, or prepare yourself with a thick and fat jump start cable. It won't start with those thin so-called 300Amps cables.
 
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