Bmw Engine Overheat Protection Technic During Traffic Jam

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JOKER

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BMW CAR SYSTEM IS ADVANCED AND COMPLEX, AN ADVANTAGE FOR PEOPLE WHO HAD GREAT ENGINEERING AND TECHNICAL BACKGROUND, The engine compartment is very hot during traffic jam :eek: or the car not moving;due to no high velocity air flow into the engine. :eek: This condition is hazard to the engine and engine compartment plastic component such as the wire or any plastic parts, :listen: Personnel modification is required to protect the engine from suffering thermal stress.By install a manual auxiliary fan activation switch to cold down the engine during traffic jam or after racing... (by manually)The auxiliary fan usually activated by air condition, and temperature switch.the temperature switch activated it only when reached 91degC for low speed and 99degC for high speed. But this consider very hot before the switch can automatic activate it. :smokin: Check the attachment for wiring :listen:
 
Hot meh? our engine? My E90 don't even have a temperature gauge. Atmosphere temperature ada la, both inside and outside also ada.. :D

Extra electric fan will draw more current from your battery, load your alternator and engine.. and shortening the life of all these related components not to mention higher FC and hampering performance... be wary of the trade offs.. !!
 
astroboy;308985 said:
Hot meh? our engine? My E90 don't even have a temperature gauge. Atmosphere temperature ada la, both inside and outside also ada.. :D

Extra electric fan will draw more current from your battery, load your alternator and engine.. and shortening the life of all these related components not to mention higher FC and hampering performance... be wary of the trade offs.. !!

:stupid:
You might want to consider to turn off your AC to counter these trade off :rolleyes:
Is electric fan!!
Joker method totally workable.
But I prefer a regular coolant replacment & flush. Plus addon "Water Wetter".
 
First, you can actually get a toggle switch which have 3 positions.
i.e "Fast" - "OFF" - "Slow". that was there is less switches to play with to turn
on the AUx fan.

The switch that joker have suggest is only used when you are struck in a traffic jam on a hot day and you need the "extra" cooling to maintain the engine temperature. However, when you are moving, the aux fan can be switch off and hence there is no effect on fuel consumption, power loss etc..

BTW, joker.. good idea for the DIY..

I have solve overheating problem by adding extra silicon oil for the fan cluth to make it spin faster at lower temperature. However, at traffic jam, the temperature is maintained at 1/2 mark.
 
yes, the engine temperature did not increase. But the hot air
had to be purge out. Switch it on only when traffic jam, not
all the time!
 
I'm confuse by the thread so far. Are we talking about adding a switch to manually activate the fan clutch or the Aux fan, in front of the radiator? Both of which are automatically activated base on their own mechanism, and should perform effectively when all parts are in good condition.

Wouldn't ensuring expelling of hot air out from the engine compartment to be more direct in Joker's primary objective in cooling the interior engine compartment area? Both fans, indirectly load the car in terms of engine or electrical system.
 
Overheating

jarance;309004 said:
I have solve overheating problem by adding extra silicon oil for the fan cluth to make it spin faster at lower temperature. However, at traffic jam, the temperature is maintained at 1/2 mark.

my car overheated last week. I was on the way to Melaka. Had to tow it all the way back. the mechanic told me that water already sip into engine. Anyways.....my temperature gauge is always at 1/2 mark. is it ok?
 
shazani;310214 said:
my car overheated last week. I was on the way to Melaka. Had to tow it all the way back. the mechanic told me that water already sip into engine. Anyways.....my temperature gauge is always at 1/2 mark. is it ok?

Yes, the bimetallic strip for the cluth fan is calibrated to cool the temperature to the half mark.

If water have sipped into the engine, that means that your engine block is cracked or your cylinder head gasket is blown.

The only remedy for the above is top overhaul.

BTW, did you try to add water when the engine temperature is still hot.
 
The later vehicles are mostly running one all-in-one electric fan, E90 also the same and somemore canggih, it has an inverter technology, if not wrong.

Start engine, fan no turn.
When engine heat up, fan turn.
When aircond on, compressor cut in, fan turn faster. Compressor cut out, fan turn slower.

But one evening, I off engine, pull out the key, fan still running. I thought engine too hot and certain JDM has this feature.. waited few minutes, fan still running... something is not right. Restart the engine, on aircond, then kill everything.. This time, fan stops.. :stupid:

I think everything is taken care of.. good enough for me.

More electric fans draw more electric current, alternator works harder to recharge the battery, engine load heavier, FC higher, battery life span shorter, alternator life span shorter..bla..bla..bla..

We can debate until the cow comes home but I am happy with status quo.

This reminds me of certain race car wannabe lifted their bonnet with a gap near the windscreen thinking hot air will release faster when can on the move.. :stupid:
 
astroboy;310269 said:
This reminds me of certain race car wannabe lifted their bonnet with a gap near the windscreen thinking hot air will release faster when can on the move.. :stupid:

LOL that used to be the in-thing to do if you had a modified car years ago. It looks nice actually :) I still see it on some cars but not as much as last time.
 
loafer;310281 said:
LOL that used to be the in-thing to do if you had a modified car years ago. It looks nice actually :) I still see it on some cars but not as much as last time.

They should korek the lobang at the fender and slap on an M3 fender grill, then moist will not form on windscreen on rainy days.. :D Oh Well! all kinds of people around.. :stupid:

Back to the auxiliary fan, no offense but if I may use an analogy, its like having a nice aircond room but felt not cold enough, so owner put in a fridge and leave the fridge door open during hot days.. cabutz.......

Most of the time when engine over heat is because of low coolant or sticky termostat blocking the coolant circulation, failing which coolant does not circulate at all, so have additional fan in engine won't help..
 
overheating

jarance;310238 said:
Yes, the bimetallic strip for the cluth fan is calibrated to cool the temperature to the half mark.

If water have sipped into the engine, that means that your engine block is cracked or your cylinder head gasket is blown.

The only remedy for the above is top overhaul.

BTW, did you try to add water when the engine temperature is still hot.

thanks for the info bro. yup...had to do top overhaul. I did add water...but the funny thing is when the car is idling, the temperature is normal but once jalan je.....temperature terus shoot up. ----headache----
 
shazani;310298 said:
thanks for the info bro. yup...had to do top overhaul. I did add water...but the funny thing is when the car is idling, the temperature is normal but once jalan je.....temperature terus shoot up. ----headache----

bro, need clarification a bit on the above.

1. The temperature shoot up after how many kilometer driving and how long.

2. Did this happen before you do the top overhaul or after overhaul.

3. Did you still see air bubble when you rev the engine in the radiator with the cap open?

4. Normally, oil will get into the radiator rather than water get into engine if the gasket is blown.

5. Any problem with the thermostat or water pump.

6. Did you bleed the radiator properly when you add water.
 
I suppose if the cooling system is kept at tip top condition, one need not worry about the engine overheating. The last time I had some overheating issues (up to 3/4) at severe traffic jams, but after replacing the fan clutch, everything is good.

If you want to activate the electric fan earlier change the fan switch that attaches to the radiator. Get one that operates at 80 degrees Centigrade.

Cheers
 
shazani;310298 said:
thanks for the info bro. yup...had to do top overhaul. I did add water...but the funny thing is when the car is idling, the temperature is normal but once jalan je.....temperature terus shoot up. ----headache----

Sorry to hear about your car trouble.
If the temperature rise quicky when car run, usually mean you have trapped air bubble, sticky Thermostat (mentioned by AstroBoy), poor maintain coolant, rusting radiator, and etc.
When car is running, which more heat are generated, and water pump run harder to move coolant/water, it will raise temperature quicker.

If water get into your engine, it can be a wrap head.
You might able to save your engine's head depend how bad is the warp.
Aluminium don't like high heat. :)
Cast iron block is usually indestructible. :D
 
jarance;310323 said:
bro, need clarification a bit on the above.

1. The temperature shoot up after how many kilometer driving and how long.

2. Did this happen before you do the top overhaul or after overhaul.

3. Did you still see air bubble when you rev the engine in the radiator with the cap open?

4. Normally, oil will get into the radiator rather than water get into engine if the gasket is blown.

5. Any problem with the thermostat or water pump.

6. Did you bleed the radiator properly when you add water.

Somebody drove my car at the time. but he manage to drive from yong peng to Air hitam.I met him at Air hitam, he already cabut the thermostat. but when i checked the tank hose has already worn down. it happened before my top overhaul.
 
shazani;310352 said:
Somebody drove my car at the time. but he manage to drive from yong peng to Air hitam.I met him at Air hitam, he already cabut the thermostat. but when i checked the tank hose has already worn down. it happened before my top overhaul.

Now, I am even more confuse...

You said that your car temperature shot up when driving but good at idling. Now you say that somebody drive it.

Also, how can the car move without the thermostat. The water will gush out from the hole if the thermostat is removed.
 
astroboy;310269 said:
The later vehicles are mostly running one all-in-one electric fan, E90 also the same and somemore canggih, it has an inverter technology, if not wrong.

Start engine, fan no turn.
When engine heat up, fan turn.
When aircond on, compressor cut in, fan turn faster. Compressor cut out, fan turn slower.

But one evening, I off engine, pull out the key, fan still running. I thought engine too hot and certain JDM has this feature.. waited few minutes, fan still running... something is not right. Restart the engine, on aircond, then kill everything.. This time, fan stops.. :stupid:

I think everything is taken care of.. good enough for me.

More electric fans draw more electric current, alternator works harder to recharge the battery, engine load heavier, FC higher, battery life span shorter, alternator life span shorter..bla..bla..bla..

We can debate until the cow comes home but I am happy with status quo.

This reminds me of certain race car wannabe lifted their bonnet with a gap near the windscreen thinking hot air will release faster when can on the move.. :stupid:

:eek:
you want to protect your alternator??
but eletric fuel pump run all the time, electric window....
you should check the entire car wiring (E90 model wiring), some time the
factory worker(tire)/robot(wrong program) connect wrong wiring terminal
and cause certain short circuit. the short circuit did not put the car
on flame, cannot detect by OBD2 DIAG :eek:, drain battery,
loosing horse power, damaging alternator, altering the DME/ECU,
improper spark,.....

To detect the short circuit, check the battery current drain rate
with everything off include the trunk light (off by press contact switch).
the current drain should not exceed 100mA (for my car).
my car currently at 50mA no alarm. (installing new alarm system)

my car really had the wrongly connect wire.... had solved,
1. the fuel filler door actuator (only can close with alarm)
2. the car alarm system (? wire link with a wire go to Climate control module)
3. the stereo hi-fi (+ go to memory line ?)
4. the DLC wire (2 DLC wire goes into dash board for ?)

once the short circuit solved, the car 0-100km/h in 4-6 second,
the car can do driff 180deg turn, just like the transpoter....:rock:
 
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