Auto Transmission

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AnGeLiCdEmOn108

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Hi guys,I was having a conversation with my mechanic friend about leaving the auto gear in D while waiting for the traffic light to change from red to green. He told me that it is better to engage the gear to N or even P if the car is stationary for a long time. This is because there will be pressure building up in the gear box which leads to higher wear & tear to the gear and if we change to N, the pressure is not produce. If there is a pressure, is there a pressure realise valve?However during some casual discussion with buddies, they told me that if we kept on changing the gear, the clucth will wear off faster. Is this true? Is it better then leaving the gear at D all the time?Leaving the gear at P while parking without the hand breaks. What is the advantage and disadvantage? I have this concept where if we use the P gear without the hand brakes all the time even when the car is parked at a slope, then the tendency of the P gear to wear off is faster.Is this true? How many of you ever used your hand brakes?Checked out some sites on auto transmission but would love to get some feedback from you guys.Cheers...
 
Safest method I presumed is to switch off the car. No wear on clutch nor any pressure buildup :p :p :yahoo:
 
Originally posted by ALBundy@May 4 2005, 08:54 AM
Safest method I presumed is to switch off the car. No wear on clutch nor any pressure buildup :p :p :yahoo:
true is true... but then will kong up the starter and the battery lah... how then... :rofl: imagine all the cars stopped at red light switched off their engines, hahaha will be quiet and lesser polution...
 
huh?! :eek: but i tot if we press the break while we r using the D tran', thats mean we r forcing our car to stop? i mean the force inside is toward the front n we try to stop it, isn't that not good?
 
Leave it in 'D' when stopping at red lights etc. I have read that it present less wear and tear to the auto internals.

Put it in 'P' when you want to park but not when you are at red lights or only stopping momentarily.

Never put it in 'N' - the use of the 'N' gear is restricted to very specifc circumstances....of which I cant remeber alrready....sorry...

However, the above are the opinions of a transmission specialist. The brake people will tell you that stepping on the brakes when it is REALLY hot MAY cause rotor warpage...... this may be mitigated by the use of good quality brake components where the manufacturer would have considered all these variables in manufacture....

Conclusion? IMHO Not straighforward...... but what is clear is that brake components geenrally cost less than a auto tranmission rebuild or replacement :)
 
Originally posted by AnGeLiCdEmOn108@May 4 2005, 03:48 AM
Hi guys,

I was having a conversation with my mechanic friend about leaving the auto gear in D while waiting for the traffic light to change from red to green. He told me that it is better to engage the gear to N or even P if the car is stationary for a long time. This is because there will be pressure building up in the gear box which leads to higher wear & tear to the gear and if we change to N, the pressure is not produce.

If there is a pressure, is there a pressure realise valve?

However during some casual discussion with buddies, they told me that if we kept on changing the gear, the clucth will wear off faster.

Is this true? Is it better then leaving the gear at D all the time?

Leaving the gear at P while parking without the hand breaks. What is the advantage and disadvantage? I have this concept where if we use the P gear without the hand brakes all the time even when the car is parked at a slope, then the tendency of the P gear to wear off is faster.

Is this true? How many of you ever used your hand brakes?

Checked out some sites on auto transmission but would love to get some feedback from you guys.

Cheers...
Its better to keep it at D if you are not waiting too long at the traffic lights.
There would be pressure if its on D but there would no pressure building up and the clutches are all look up so there is no wear and tear. But do not let go your brakes of and on during the wait. This will wear the cluthes.

As for parking at slopes usually i would apply to N and pull my hand brakes than realease the foot brakes and shift to P.
 
did anyone change their clutch or torque controler?

what was the reason for the change and how much did it cost?

is it advisable to change the whole tranny?

tranny with granny with penny and canny... :D
 
Let me say again - leaving it in 'D' does not put 'pressure' on the tranny....in fact it presents the system with less wear and tear. It is actually bad to put it into 'N' or 'P' for long periods of time 9with engine running) because it will cause more wear....... doesnt make sense but this is from what I read in aan article that appeared in BMW car Mag some time ago....

My ZF4HP22 was rebuilt at the cost of RM3k at a specialist...... a well known workshop quoted me same price for rebuild.....the same one reconditioned (off the shelf already rebuilt) was about the same (or cheaper by a couple of hundred ....depends on availability).....while the cost of chop shop unit is about RM1.2k.....a forummer mentioned he can get for RM800 but as far as I am concerned I didnt find any at that price when I had to do mine .....

My guess is you should do both the tranny and torque convertor together .....rebuild work inlcudes rebuild of torque convertor so no sense doing one part but not other....
 
Originally posted by Jipster@May 5 2005, 05:58 AM
Let me say again - leaving it in 'D' does not put 'pressure' on the tranny....in fact it presents the system with less wear and tear. It is actually bad to put it into 'N' or 'P' for long periods of time 9with engine running) because it will cause more wear....... doesnt make sense but this is from what I read in aan article that appeared in BMW car Mag some time ago....

My ZF4HP22 was rebuilt at the cost of RM3k at a specialist...... a well known workshop quoted me same price for rebuild.....the same one reconditioned (off the shelf already rebuilt) was about the same (or cheaper by a couple of hundred ....depends on availability).....while the cost of chop shop unit is about RM1.2k.....a forummer mentioned he can get for RM800 but as far as I am concerned I didnt find any at that price when I had to do mine .....

My guess is you should do both the tranny and torque convertor together .....rebuild work inlcudes rebuild of torque convertor so no sense doing one part but not other....
very pure enthusiast's reply... it is true, i would have done the same thing. rather then actually getting a tranny from a chop shop or a recon one, it is better to overhaul your own. this way you know it will tend to last another 8 to 10 years more...
 
My view on this is....leave it at D unless its a long wait (like 2-3 minutes)

1) All auto transmission has a number of valves within the tranny. These have a limited liftspan...by shifting in and out of drive, these components will wear out faster and hence you need to change.

2) Engage the tranny in gear would allow the ATF to go aound the transmission instead of sitting still building heat.

If you want to prolong your tranny...the usual stuff like coming to a complete stop before shifting to R etc...beside this, make use of the other ratios in your auto box by manually shifting them thru 1,2,3,4 & D instead of leaving in D and drive.

There are a number of clutch plates in the transmission and each ratio has its own clutch...by using only D...the higher wear on that plate is to be expected. Imagine this...if the clutch plate is to last only 80,000km...you can double that by using another ratio like 4 or 3 (depending on your box is 4speeder or 5 speeder).

Try this...when you are driving in town, if your box is a 5 speeder, chances are they will never get to shift into 5th ratio as speed is slow. So since its gonna be stuck in 4th...why not shift into 4 and drive...when the speed picks up, then shift into D to make the box jump into the final ratio. You will find that your car has better pickup...cos the clutch plate is almost brand new (ie if you have never shift into other ratios other than D)

Most of the mech told me that when they take apart a tranny...they always find 3 sets of good condition clutch and 1 worn out one (4 speeder) and you can prob guess which clutch worn out first rite ?
 
Originally posted by Ghostrider-SG@May 5 2005, 07:11 AM
My view on this is....leave it at D unless its a long wait (like 2-3 minutes)

1) All auto transmission has a number of valves within the tranny. These have a limited liftspan...by shifting in and out of drive, these components will wear out faster and hence you need to change.

2) Engage the tranny in gear would allow the ATF to go aound the transmission instead of sitting still building heat.

If you want to prolong your tranny...the usual stuff like coming to a complete stop before shifting to R etc...beside this, make use of the other ratios in your auto box by manually shifting them thru 1,2,3,4 & D instead of leaving in D and drive.

There are a number of clutch plates in the transmission and each ratio has its own clutch...by using only D...the higher wear on that plate is to be expected. Imagine this...if the clutch plate is to last only 80,000km...you can double that by using another ratio like 4 or 3 (depending on your box is 4speeder or 5 speeder).

Try this...when you are driving in town, if your box is a 5 speeder, chances are they will never get to shift into 5th ratio as speed is slow. So since its gonna be stuck in 4th...why not shift into 4 and drive...when the speed picks up, then shift into D to make the box jump into the final ratio. You will find that your car has better pickup...cos the clutch plate is almost brand new (ie if you have never shift into other ratios other than D)

Most of the mech told me that when they take apart a tranny...they always find 3 sets of good condition clutch and 1 worn out one (4 speeder) and you can prob guess which clutch worn out first rite ?
i received similar feedbacks from my mech as well. will the tranny get damaged if we kept on moving from D to 2 and 1... I mean not very often but more like a steptronic but it is not a steptronic?

some of the guys mentioned that it will not get spoiled because we are just controlling the gear shift using the level rather then the torque convertor. i am a little sceptical with this answer because the auto tranny is not designed like a manual or steptronic.

any comments guys?

checked out the www.bmw-sg.com nice work guys... impressive machines...

Jeremy's picture... is he still in the club. When I met him, he was having a 5's and was thinking about getting the TT coupe. What happened? kind of like lost his mobile number but still have his bussiness card.
 
Recently had to rebuild the gearbox's in by e23 728i and Peugeot 505 Gti.. The one in the Bimmer had covered 260k miles and the Pug did 390k kilometers when they were finally taken apart. It was pure coincidence that both use the same ZF4HP22 gearbox save for some minor parts that are different.

Luckily I stick to a strict regiment of changing fluids every 15k kilometers... The clutch bands were not really worn but the torque converter somehow gave way which meant I could not drive the Pug at all.. and on the Bimmer, the infamous clutch A pack gave way, which meant I could still drive it but only in 1st gear... Each rebuild cost about 3.5k... Good thing is that I now have peace of mind for the next 5 years or longer (touch wood)

Also, Have been advised not to shift in and out of D while waiting at traffic lights... As it wears out the 'joints' Just my .02 cents..
 
Originally posted by e23_728i@May 5 2005, 09:35 AM
Recently had to rebuild the gearbox's in by e23 728i and Peugeot 505 Gti.. The one in the Bimmer had covered 260k miles and the Pug did 390k kilometers when they were finally taken apart. It was pure coincidence that both use the same ZF4HP22 gearbox save for some minor parts that are different.

Luckily I stick to a strict regiment of changing fluids every 15k kilometers... The clutch bands were not really worn but the torque converter somehow gave way which meant I could not drive the Pug at all.. and on the Bimmer, the infamous clutch A pack gave way, which meant I could still drive it but only in 1st gear... Each rebuild cost about 3.5k... Good thing is that I now have peace of mind for the next 5 years or longer (touch wood)

Also, Have been advised not to shift in and out of D while waiting at traffic lights... As it wears out the 'joints' Just my .02 cents..
E23 728i kindly share where did you rebuild your tranny?
 
Originally posted by e23_728i@May 5 2005, 02:35 PM
Recently had to rebuild the gearbox's in by e23 728i and Peugeot 505 Gti.. The one in the Bimmer had covered 260k miles and the Pug did 390k kilometers when they were finally taken apart. It was pure coincidence that both use the same ZF4HP22 gearbox save for some minor parts that are different.

Luckily I stick to a strict regiment of changing fluids every 15k kilometers... The clutch bands were not really worn but the torque converter somehow gave way which meant I could not drive the Pug at all.. and on the Bimmer, the infamous clutch A pack gave way, which meant I could still drive it but only in 1st gear... Each rebuild cost about 3.5k... Good thing is that I now have peace of mind for the next 5 years or longer (touch wood)

Also, Have been advised not to shift in and out of D while waiting at traffic lights... As it wears out the 'joints' Just my .02 cents..
by any chance do you know the details on the rebuild that took place. if you do know, kindly share if you are free.

you also mentioned that the gear box for your 7's and Peugeot if the same which is the ZF4HP22. Mmm, why is that? Does this mean that most of the conti cars share the same tranny? Not very familiar in this area.
 
The only details that I have was that all the clutch bands and stuff were changed and that the torque converter was somehow 'rebuilt'.. I left the car their and went on a short trip out of KL and picked it up yesterday. So far so good....
 
Originally posted by AnGeLiCdEmOn108@May 5 2005, 04:56 PM
some of the guys mentioned that it will not get spoiled because we are just controlling the gear shift using the level rather then the torque convertor. i am a little sceptical with this answer because the auto tranny is not designed like a manual or steptronic.

any comments guys?

checked out the www.bmw-sg.com nice work guys... impressive machines...

Jeremy's picture... is he still in the club. When I met him, he was having a 5's and was thinking about getting the TT coupe. What happened? kind of like lost his mobile number but still have his bussiness card.
Sorry bro...did not see your msg...

I personally dun think shifting between diff ratio on the box will damage the tranny. As long as you dun do F1 style of downshifting UNLESS its emergency need to slow down real fast....if you restrict your playing of the stick to upshift, it should not cause any damages at all.

Off course must remember to upshift...if not your tranny maybe toasted because of overheating if you happen to redline in that particular gear.

I will convey your msg to the guys in BMW.SG about their rides....or do you mean that they hunky ?? :p

I do not know Jeremy...why dun you reg with us so that you can catch up with old friends. I see your around in BMW.SG ok dude !!
 
thanks for the infor mate...

hunky?... :dunno: hahaha

anyway, i tried registering and need a referral lah... whats your nick in bmw.sg web board? tried ghostrider-sg did not work...
 
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