Alpine SPS-130A Type-S 5-1/4" Speaker

[stephen]

Hi all ICE sifus,thinking of getting the speakers below ..... anyone managed to fit this on the front door? for the rear, also have to use 5 1/4" speakers but does this provide enough bass or is there any other speakers? I just want to change speakers for better sound. Don't want to change head unit or add an amplifier. Too much to mess around and of course, cost $. Some advice, please. Thanks. :yahoo: Alpine SPS-130A Type-S 5-1/4" Coaxial 2-Way Speaker With a great looking grill and a swivel tweeter, this 2-way speaker will provide your system with great sound, whether it is powered by a head unit or amplifier. Peak Power: 150W RMS Power: 30W Frequency Response: 45Hz - 30kHz Swivel Tweeter Neodymium Tweeter Magnet Spoke Design Grill System Nomex Spider

 

[leakwoon]

no idea bro

i m sourcing my basic upgrade now

dun wan to have too many grill n tear down

 

[affan66]

if this is your budget, there are many more than is suitable. What is most important for you is to find one with the least speaker depth to avoid cutting through the door metal.

 

[leakwoon]

hmmm really wanto hear from a true experience owner

 

[stephen]

Went to one audio shop at Aman Suria and was recommended the following:-

Alpine SWD-2000 8" Powered Subwoofer Box :nyehehe:

This powered, ready-to-use subwoofer box is specifically designed for hatchbacks - making it exceptionally easy to add full bass to your system.

Peak Power: 350W
Frequency Response: 50Hz - 200Hz (-24dB/oct)
20cm Cone Woofer
LPF Control
Gain Control
RCA or Speaker Level Input
Variable Bass EQ
4V Input Ready
MOSFET Power Supply
Discrete Preamp Stage
MOSFET Output Transistors


Seems I can just change my damaged stock door speakers and then put this subwoofer in the boot. What do you all think? Having read that it is designed for hatchback cars puts me off a little now.

The subwoofer was quoted to me at RM1,300 and the 5 1/4" speaker at RM260.

 

[stephen]

Originally posted by leakwoon@Apr 3 2006, 11:26 AM
no idea bro

i m sourcing my basic upgrade now

dun wan to have too many grill n tear down

leakwoon,

sama sama. I also dislike drilling and having to cut up the rear parcel shelf to put larger speakers. That's why after listening to my "requirements", the car audio shop owner recommended that set-up to me. I must say having listened to with and without a subwoofer, i know i want to get a subwoofer. :nyehehe:

 

[LCP]

Stephen,

For the price range of the Alpine S-series coaxials, you can get many choices out there. Be sure to check 'em all out first, there could be some good ones with very little mounting depth.

As for the Alpine powered-subwoofer, it's actually an Alpine class-D monoblock amp with a 8" sub in a box. I have the amp (Alpine MRP-M350) powering an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1D 10" dual voice coil sub in a little 0.6cu.ft. sealed box on my Satria, never heard a 10" go so low before... flat right down to 20Hz! Planning to transfer these to my E36 soon, hafta build new box for the sub... Moral of the story here is if you wanna get that Alpine powered-sub, don't, just go for the amp and get another sub, will be more expensive though, but very rewarding.

For a simple powered sub, get that little Blaupunkt 8000A odsb (or something like that, can't recall the model number).

LCP

 

[leakwoon]

hmmm

but changing stock speaker wont have significant different

i think we still need a power amp


aikss

 

[stephen]

ODsb 8000A active sub main features:

Active subwoofer with passive radiator technology in extremely compact enclosure
The easiest way to more bass - amplifier and speaker in a box!
Twin 200mm drive units using passive radiator technology
Powerful 140Watt Class 'D' amplifier


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Efficiency 4 ohm

Can accept line level (RCA) or speaker level input

Max. acoustic pressure (SPL @ 100Hz) 136dB

Frequency response 60 - 120Hz

Phase regulator (0-180 degree) adjuster

Variable low-pass filter (60-120Hz)

Gain controls (0.2V - 8.0V)

Integral 20A blade fuse protection

ISSAC and power indicator LEDs

Dimensions 292w x 278h x 248d (mm). Weight 7.5kg

Two year manufacturer's warranty

Complete with fixing brackets, speaker level input lead, full fitting and operating guide

 

[Ade]

The Alpine type S speakers are a waste of money..have owned them and they sux.....

Should get the Type R speakers....

U can try getting sounstream amplifiers...4 channel at 35Wx4 RMS....below RM800 i think now...

 

[Ade]

Furthermore, the depth of the fronts are shallow, something like 2.3" only...i know some ppl have fitted the TYPE R speakers to the front without modification to the original grill but you got to drill a hole in the door.....else, the bass wont be good...

I am having those speakers and a soundstream amp myself and still comtemplating whether to drill or not to drill...my other option is to fit these at the rear and get a 5.25" FOCAL or Infinity speakers at the front (component of course with silk dome, if you are the SQL type) like me...but of course the front mid-bass would not be as good as a 6.5" speakers....

 

[leakwoon]

bro ade

agreed with u

so tis mean we have to drill n tear down the UDM



like tat i might just stick to stock

 

[skar19]

Originally posted by stephen@Apr 2 2006, 08:17 AM
Hi all ICE sifus,

thinking of getting the speakers below ..... anyone managed to fit this on the front door? for the rear, also have to use 5 1/4" speakers but does this provide enough bass or is there any other speakers? I just want to change speakers for better sound. Don't want to change head unit or add an amplifier. Too much to mess around and of course, cost $. Some advice, please. Thanks. :yahoo:


Alpine SPS-130A Type-S 5-1/4" Coaxial 2-Way Speaker

With a great looking grill and a swivel tweeter, this 2-way speaker will provide your system with great sound, whether it is powered by a head unit or amplifier.

Peak Power: 150W
RMS Power: 30W
Frequency Response: 45Hz - 30kHz
Swivel Tweeter
Neodymium Tweeter Magnet
Spoke Design Grill System
Nomex Spider

i would suggest that you get the last type-r 5.25 inch component set - spr136a, the sound quality would be better than the sps-130a.

they dont make 5.25" components for sets for type-s the difference in sound quality is much better. if you want i can take you to the shop where i get my alpine audio. they give good prices on audio parts.

what size is your current rear speakers?

you have to specify what your budget is, only then products can be chosen
i can advise you on basic setups, if you want high end talk to vanquish or affan

 

[Ade]

skar19,

Can PM me the location and the price of these 5.25" Type R components..will match my rear 6.5" type R...kekeke..

 

[skar19]

it is in ss2....the audio shop is near the balai polis. i can bring you there if you want

 

[stephen]

skar19, thx for the info. If i am not mistaken, the alpine type R speakers need AMP to bring out the most in it.

My current stock set-up as what Saat posted in another thread is:
HU - BMW Business cassette
CD - BMW 6 Disc CD Changer (OEM Alpine)
Fronts - BMW 5.25" Mids (OEM Nokia) BMW 1" Tweeter (OEM Nokia)
Rears - BMW 5.25" Mids (OEM Nokia)

My budget for improving my current sound system is RM2k max. Not worth spending on a 3 1/2 year old car already. That's why I am seriously considering the Alpine Powered Sub-Woofer as it seems simple enough to install and also to remove to my next UDM hopefully.

I am also not expecting great bass or great sound system. Maybe I got used to the stock system since it is way past the days i installed a sound system on my Wira.....amplified, speakers, etc etc.

 

[leakwoon]

bro stephen

same as u lo

 

[stephen]

alamak, changing my mind oledi after reading replies in both forums and also just after visiting another audio installer.

Seems the active subwoofer is really more suited for hatchbacks or MPVs like Estima. Putting that in my boot coupled with quite good sound insulation in my car, i think i wont get the most out of the active subwoofer.

The Alpine Type-R subwoofers are much more expensive and need better amps to bring out its best too.

So, now i am switching to seeking the sifus' opinions here about getting the following which should not be more than RM2k:

1) Alpine V-Power Amplifiers model no. MRP-F240 4 channel amp with 75W x 4max / 180W x 2max (BTL)
2) Alpine Type-E subwoofer SWE-1042 10"subwoofer with 750W Peak Power, 250 RMS, 32Hz-1kHz

Appreciate your comments. Thx.

MRP-F240 V-Power 4/3/2 Channel Power Amplifier
75W x 4 (Max)
100W x 2 RMS [4Ohms - Bridged @ 14.4V (0.3% THD)]
50W x 4 RMS [2Ohms @ 14.4V (0.3% THD)]
40W x 4 RMS [4Ohms @ 14.4V (0.08% THD)]
Bass engine
HP/LP Crossover
Bass EQ (Variable Ch-3/4)
RCA or Speaker Level Inputs
MOSFET Output Transistors

 

[leakwoon]

bro u went to ACP look for ah bee izi?

i can bring u there since i knew him long long time oledi

ekke

 

[skar19]

Originally posted by stephen@Apr 5 2006, 10:24 PM
alamak, changing my mind oledi after reading replies in both forums and also just after visiting another audio installer.

Seems the active subwoofer is really more suited for hatchbacks or MPVs like Estima. Putting that in my boot coupled with quite good sound insulation in my car, i think i wont get the most out of the active subwoofer.

The Alpine Type-R subwoofers are much more expensive and need better amps to bring out its best too.

So, now i am switching to seeking the sifus' opinions here about getting the following which should not be more than RM2k:

1) Alpine V-Power Amplifiers model no. MRP-F240 4 channel amp with 75W x 4max / 180W x 2max (BTL)
2) Alpine Type-E subwoofer SWE-1042 10"subwoofer with 750W Peak Power, 250 RMS, 32Hz-1kHz

Appreciate your comments. Thx.

MRP-F240 V-Power 4/3/2 Channel Power Amplifier
75W x 4 (Max)
100W x 2 RMS [4Ohms - Bridged @ 14.4V (0.3% THD)]
50W x 4 RMS [2Ohms @ 14.4V (0.3% THD)]
40W x 4 RMS [4Ohms @ 14.4V (0.08% THD)]
Bass engine
HP/LP Crossover
Bass EQ (Variable Ch-3/4)
RCA or Speaker Level Inputs
MOSFET Output Transistors

i am using the same amp in my setup, the 100rms obtained by bridging should be enough to run the type-e sub, but it is reccomendable to run it with more power.

if you are using the 4channel amp just to run the sub, it might not be worth it. you would be better off getting the monoblock amp of the same series.

come and check out my system i am using the same amp. 2 channels to the type-r components and 1 channel bridged(100rms) running a 200rms 12" sub. it sounds fine.

If your budget is 2k you should be able to get the amp, rear speakers and front speakers.