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whats the best engine oil
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<blockquote data-quote="Autochild" data-source="post: 103890" data-attributes="member: 2084"><p>Some points in no specific order.. hope they answer some questions...</p><p></p><p>The results from poor engine oil can usually not be noticed right away.. this comes later when you say "hmm what’s that noise?" and the mechanic says.. "hmm that noise is not good!" .. or you simply start to slowly notice your car runs heavier and heavier as FC rises and rises.. </p><p></p><p>Changing oil every 45 or 5000Km is not economical considering the time spent to bring it for service, the cost of the service and the cost of the filter. You could change every 12-15K and use the extra savings to buy better quality oil… it may still cost you a bit more but it’s worth it.</p><p></p><p>Open up your Oil cap .. what color are the parts you see inside (only some models .. others have a windage tray covering) ? Black, Orange or Silver? .. anyhow they should be silver colored...</p><p></p><p>Poor quality oil will carbonize especially under the pistons where it is hottest this will block oil from reaching the wrist pins which will cause poor rotating assembly balance and failure of the piston rings. As well it can oxidize in the "oilers" these are small tubes that spray oil to the underside of the pistons.. if these get blocked it is just a matter of time before you lose the game.</p><p></p><p>Good base oil has good molecular structure, good molecular structure comes from exceptional processing such as severe hydrocracking and gives an oil better thermal stability. Good oil also has better quality additives these protect against corrosion.. but don't think these means simply "rust".. this corrosion protection is more in terms of Ph level and the effect of Ph, meaning Acid which is formed by reaction of blow-by gasses with water (humidity) .. this acid eats Zinc, Aluminum as well as Iron.. there is also "fretting corrosion" that occurs under pressure. this is what you would see as "stains" on bearing sleeves etc.. also consider an oils shear strenght..which has surprisingly little to do with it's actual viscosity (such as between a 10W30 and a 20W50).. it oxidation resistance it's detergent ability and it's ability to suspend particles.. all this comes into play before considering the quality and quantities of anti-friction agents, the quality of it's VII's/Polymers used to make it multi-grade ..and these Poylers are usually the first parts of the oil to get broken (molecularly)..</p><p></p><p>You can not tell a good oil just by it's 'sound".. you can simple add vegetable oil and head and shoulders shampoo (for a large dose of Zinc/ZZDP) and have a quite engine.. for a short time</p><p></p><p>As I said you should look into some more informed and unbiased websites such as BITOG (Bob is the oil guy).. and others sources to educate yourself a bit on how not all oils are equal.. also there is some good information available on Autoworld.com in the petrol, Oil and Additives forum.</p><p></p><p>Some oil contain additives alone that would cost the manufacturer RM40 for a dose for 4L .. this certainly is not in the oil you are buying for RM55/4L.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Peace,</p><p>Autochild</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Autochild, post: 103890, member: 2084"] Some points in no specific order.. hope they answer some questions... The results from poor engine oil can usually not be noticed right away.. this comes later when you say "hmm what’s that noise?" and the mechanic says.. "hmm that noise is not good!" .. or you simply start to slowly notice your car runs heavier and heavier as FC rises and rises.. Changing oil every 45 or 5000Km is not economical considering the time spent to bring it for service, the cost of the service and the cost of the filter. You could change every 12-15K and use the extra savings to buy better quality oil… it may still cost you a bit more but it’s worth it. Open up your Oil cap .. what color are the parts you see inside (only some models .. others have a windage tray covering) ? Black, Orange or Silver? .. anyhow they should be silver colored... Poor quality oil will carbonize especially under the pistons where it is hottest this will block oil from reaching the wrist pins which will cause poor rotating assembly balance and failure of the piston rings. As well it can oxidize in the "oilers" these are small tubes that spray oil to the underside of the pistons.. if these get blocked it is just a matter of time before you lose the game. Good base oil has good molecular structure, good molecular structure comes from exceptional processing such as severe hydrocracking and gives an oil better thermal stability. Good oil also has better quality additives these protect against corrosion.. but don't think these means simply "rust".. this corrosion protection is more in terms of Ph level and the effect of Ph, meaning Acid which is formed by reaction of blow-by gasses with water (humidity) .. this acid eats Zinc, Aluminum as well as Iron.. there is also "fretting corrosion" that occurs under pressure. this is what you would see as "stains" on bearing sleeves etc.. also consider an oils shear strenght..which has surprisingly little to do with it's actual viscosity (such as between a 10W30 and a 20W50).. it oxidation resistance it's detergent ability and it's ability to suspend particles.. all this comes into play before considering the quality and quantities of anti-friction agents, the quality of it's VII's/Polymers used to make it multi-grade ..and these Poylers are usually the first parts of the oil to get broken (molecularly).. You can not tell a good oil just by it's 'sound".. you can simple add vegetable oil and head and shoulders shampoo (for a large dose of Zinc/ZZDP) and have a quite engine.. for a short time As I said you should look into some more informed and unbiased websites such as BITOG (Bob is the oil guy).. and others sources to educate yourself a bit on how not all oils are equal.. also there is some good information available on Autoworld.com in the petrol, Oil and Additives forum. Some oil contain additives alone that would cost the manufacturer RM40 for a dose for 4L .. this certainly is not in the oil you are buying for RM55/4L. Peace, Autochild [/QUOTE]
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