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Need Advice... Battery flat or Alternator bad.
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<blockquote data-quote="jarance" data-source="post: 386441" data-attributes="member: 21"><p>just use a voltmeter to check. When car running, the voltage should be 13.6 to 14.5VDC at the battery terminal.</p><p></p><p>The battery is 12VDC nominal voltage. To charge the battery, the output from the alternator should be at 1.2 times the nominal voltage. i.e. 14.4VDC.</p><p></p><p>Since you battery is NEW, you can take it back to the shop to check. New battery at the shop does not means it is good. Battery also have a self life just like your tyres. If they are kept too long in the store, it will loose its charge. </p><p></p><p>Just make sure that all electronic equipment is OFF when you do the "disconnect" negative test. If the alternator is faulty, you WILL fry your equipment due to <strong>over voltage</strong>. (slip rings faulty)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jarance, post: 386441, member: 21"] just use a voltmeter to check. When car running, the voltage should be 13.6 to 14.5VDC at the battery terminal. The battery is 12VDC nominal voltage. To charge the battery, the output from the alternator should be at 1.2 times the nominal voltage. i.e. 14.4VDC. Since you battery is NEW, you can take it back to the shop to check. New battery at the shop does not means it is good. Battery also have a self life just like your tyres. If they are kept too long in the store, it will loose its charge. Just make sure that all electronic equipment is OFF when you do the "disconnect" negative test. If the alternator is faulty, you WILL fry your equipment due to [B]over voltage[/B]. (slip rings faulty) [/QUOTE]
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Need Advice... Battery flat or Alternator bad.
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