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The BMW Range
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My E36 Experience
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<blockquote data-quote="Lee36328" data-source="post: 207150" data-attributes="member: 113"><p>Anxious,</p><p></p><p>Firstly, get a second opinion. Are you absolutely sure you want to get an overhaul, or can you live with the slight pressure loss in one cylinder and top up the engine oil more regularly for now?</p><p></p><p>If you decide to proceed, here are some of the parts that may or may not be involved depending on how deep you want to go...</p><p></p><p>Bottom gasket set</p><p>Grindvalve gasket set</p><p>cyl. Head gasket set</p><p>cyl head bolt</p><p>crankshaft sprocket</p><p>main bearing std</p><p>con rod bearing</p><p><strong> piston rings</strong></p><p>timing chain lower</p><p>timing chain upper</p><p>timing tensioner</p><p>upper timing guide</p><p>guide rail</p><p>vanos shim kit</p><p>oil pump chain</p><p>heater return pipe</p><p>t-stat</p><p>t-stat housing</p><p>camshaft sensor</p><p>crankshaft sensor</p><p>air sliding hose</p><p>valve</p><p></p><p>labour :</p><p>- overhaul</p><p>- skim cylinder head</p><p>- skim engine block surface</p><p></p><p>What you should watch out for :</p><p></p><p>1. Obviously, a workshop that you can trust to do the job</p><p></p><p>2. Get multiple quotes, some estimates of the parts that need to be changed, and avoid the cheapest quotes</p><p></p><p>3. Decide how deep you want to go, since the engine is open anyway.</p><p></p><p>A little tip : Ask them how they re-tighten the engine after the rebuild. It has to be done in a particular sequence, and to a particular torque level. If they can't tell you, skip to the next one.</p><p></p><p>The above list is quite comprehensive. In your case, it probably need not go to that extent.</p><p></p><p>Get it done right, and you won't have to worry about it for the next few years. But I repeat, first be sure that you need to, or want to get it done. I'd sleep over it for a while if I were you. Perhaps go take a drive in a friend's car and compare it with yours to see whether the performance is sufficiently lacking to warrant going down this path.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lee36328, post: 207150, member: 113"] Anxious, Firstly, get a second opinion. Are you absolutely sure you want to get an overhaul, or can you live with the slight pressure loss in one cylinder and top up the engine oil more regularly for now? If you decide to proceed, here are some of the parts that may or may not be involved depending on how deep you want to go... Bottom gasket set Grindvalve gasket set cyl. Head gasket set cyl head bolt crankshaft sprocket main bearing std con rod bearing [B] piston rings[/B] timing chain lower timing chain upper timing tensioner upper timing guide guide rail vanos shim kit oil pump chain heater return pipe t-stat t-stat housing camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor air sliding hose valve labour : - overhaul - skim cylinder head - skim engine block surface What you should watch out for : 1. Obviously, a workshop that you can trust to do the job 2. Get multiple quotes, some estimates of the parts that need to be changed, and avoid the cheapest quotes 3. Decide how deep you want to go, since the engine is open anyway. A little tip : Ask them how they re-tighten the engine after the rebuild. It has to be done in a particular sequence, and to a particular torque level. If they can't tell you, skip to the next one. The above list is quite comprehensive. In your case, it probably need not go to that extent. Get it done right, and you won't have to worry about it for the next few years. But I repeat, first be sure that you need to, or want to get it done. I'd sleep over it for a while if I were you. Perhaps go take a drive in a friend's car and compare it with yours to see whether the performance is sufficiently lacking to warrant going down this path. [/QUOTE]
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