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The BMW Range
3 Series
E36
Help! e36 318i AFM problem
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<blockquote data-quote="Roberto" data-source="post: 390013" data-attributes="member: 8160"><p>Well dude where are you located ? I'll see if I can help you.</p><p></p><p>The many error codes that show up on the GTR system should be reset to zero and then tested 1 week later to see if they have reappeared. This is for stuff which is not obviously wrong.</p><p></p><p>And keep the old fuel pump...if you gave it to the mechanic call him and tell him that you're coming by to pick it up. Have another mechanic test it later. What do you mean by cable testing the fuel pump? Did he remove it and connect it to a battery to see if it started whirring away? That's the standard way to test it.</p><p></p><p>Even if the fuel pump is gone, keep the old fuel float from your old pump. The fuel float for these models tend to fail slowly, resulting in a wobbly and inaccurate fuel needle on your instrument cluster. You can just replace the float alone if that happens.</p><p></p><p>Don't buy your crankshaft sensor yet. This is one of those things that either works or does not work. There's no in between i.e. there are no degrees of failure. If it does not work, the engine just will not start. That's all there is to it. Your engine starts so its basically fine. That being said, it is a good idea to replace this sensor once every 10 years even if yours is working fine, and to reinforce its wire with insulating tape in the meanwhile. This is because your car totally stops when it fails,.....damn bloody inconvenient pain in the butt when that happens....and this sensor will eventually fail.</p><p></p><p>Crankshaft sensors are totally different from idle control valves. This sensor is well explained in the diagram posted earlier. The idle control valve controls your engine's idle (duh <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> ) by preventing it from falling below the minimum settings. If the idle falls below these settings, (usually) the engine will stall.</p><p></p><p>p.s. Just checked with my mech. RM30 for the labour to replace a fuel pump. Maybe he charged you more for coming down to your place etc, but even then, RM100 is too much. I think he feels that you're an easy target.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Roberto, post: 390013, member: 8160"] Well dude where are you located ? I'll see if I can help you. The many error codes that show up on the GTR system should be reset to zero and then tested 1 week later to see if they have reappeared. This is for stuff which is not obviously wrong. And keep the old fuel pump...if you gave it to the mechanic call him and tell him that you're coming by to pick it up. Have another mechanic test it later. What do you mean by cable testing the fuel pump? Did he remove it and connect it to a battery to see if it started whirring away? That's the standard way to test it. Even if the fuel pump is gone, keep the old fuel float from your old pump. The fuel float for these models tend to fail slowly, resulting in a wobbly and inaccurate fuel needle on your instrument cluster. You can just replace the float alone if that happens. Don't buy your crankshaft sensor yet. This is one of those things that either works or does not work. There's no in between i.e. there are no degrees of failure. If it does not work, the engine just will not start. That's all there is to it. Your engine starts so its basically fine. That being said, it is a good idea to replace this sensor once every 10 years even if yours is working fine, and to reinforce its wire with insulating tape in the meanwhile. This is because your car totally stops when it fails,.....damn bloody inconvenient pain in the butt when that happens....and this sensor will eventually fail. Crankshaft sensors are totally different from idle control valves. This sensor is well explained in the diagram posted earlier. The idle control valve controls your engine's idle (duh :) ) by preventing it from falling below the minimum settings. If the idle falls below these settings, (usually) the engine will stall. p.s. Just checked with my mech. RM30 for the labour to replace a fuel pump. Maybe he charged you more for coming down to your place etc, but even then, RM100 is too much. I think he feels that you're an easy target. [/QUOTE]
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Help! e36 318i AFM problem
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