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Message: <blockquote data-quote="willy5" data-source="post: 186905" data-attributes="member: 2319">Hi publicbus, In my case I ended up with 1 x 8" hole. My story is below....  I just checked again and the punch outs are quite small (about 2" dia), not sure if these are enuf but I would remove both. You can have the holes made first then test the subs to see if you like what you hear before reinstalling the rear shelf board. If it seems weak compared to what you hear with the boot open, then have the installer cut a bigger hole. While the rear parcel shelf cover is out, make sure they line it (between the metal and the board) with some vibration absorbtion material (like polyester fill they use for lining the inside of the speaker box), this prevents the board from rattling.  I would have been happy with the tube subs actually. What happened to me was, I first bought the tube subs without cutting the holes and was not satisfied as the bass was out of sync and weak so I traded in the tubes for a free air mounted sub and had the hole cut which shook the passenger compartment crazy and was inconsistent as mentioned earlier, then ended up buying the box for the sub. Mostly my fault as I did not want to have the holes cut in the first place! So  I spent more than necessary cost and time. Hope this will help If you are not to fussed with getting really high end quality, you can power your front speakers (your choice to upgrade, I didn't) with the existing head unit, take the feed off the rear speakers to your sub amp (can be located next to the CD changer and power supply from the battery in the boot therefor min. wiring), and leave the rear speakers connected for rear fill sound. Again I'm no big time sound enthusiast so I am quite happy with this set up.</blockquote>

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