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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Vanquish" data-source="post: 167103" data-attributes="member: 84">LOL! The age old debate continues! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue    :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />  Seriously, both mounting options i.e kicks vs door panels have their own set of pros and cons. Ultimately, I believe that it all boils down to the type of set-up you're aiming for, equipment used and most importantly of all - how well can they/the whole system be tuned. The stock location MAY seem to have limited cavity space but once you take away the original trim and replace it with a purpose built pair of kicks, the mounting options are almost limitless. In fact, I recall seeing/hearing a set-up with a pair of DLS prototype 8 inch mids on kicks at the stock location with matching 3 inch DLS midrange and tweets on the A pillars with excellent SQ properties. LCP, do remember that the required enclosure volume that people speak of is non relative as these can be factored in at the point of kicks fabrication. Seriously, if you have a pair of midbass unit with about 2.75-3.5 inch mounting depth - a simple pair of solid kicks will be able to handle the mid bass reproduction IMO. Where did they get the roll off theory at 160Hz ? Is this something that they are able to back-up with data or simple "I think so" ramblings ?<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink    ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" />  P/S - the stock location is only able to fit a 5.25 inch midbass unit and has an approx. mounting cavity of less than 2 1/2 inch or so. In fact, even with current DLS UR6 mids in my car ( known for their so-so midbass properties ), I must say that I'm content with the current midbass level and would rather spend more time working on other elements such as imaging, staging, channel separation plus the overall system integration. Honestly, one can only have so much mid bass upfront - as they say, DO NOT MISTAKE THE SUBBASS FROM YOUR MIDS FOR MIDBASS! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite9" alt=":eek:" title="Eek!    :eek:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":eek:" /> IMO, a normal 6 inch midbass unit is only effective to about 80 plus Hz and a sub is essential for anything lower than that. Unless of course if you're refering to those high XMAX midbass drivers ( but with limited top end entension ) that are more suited for dedicated mid bass duties in a 3 way system. Of course, on another note I'm looking at swapping the UR6s soon with a pair of SEAS L18 RNX mids ( 8 ohms with a 3 3/4 inch mounting depth) and add a pair of SEAS 3 inch dome midrange for a proper 3 way system. Needless to say, a new pair of kicks with a bit more mounting depth and space - my installer thinks that this is very much possible so we'll see how it goes. The E36 door structure too does not allow such large mounting depth so you can be assured that the door cavity will not yield a swept volume of 1 cft ..... in fact, it should be less than half of that. As for the door panel mounting, the best install I've heard todate of such a project belongs to the Resident ICE Meister here, Affan - you should try to hook up with that guy and hear it for yourself. A lot of work and tuning hours have gone into it and it sounds just superb. Honestly, the rest of similar installs that I have heard of in E36s are just so-so or even plain pathetic. Proof that even the best gears and equipment can be screwed by poor install and even poorer tuning skills. Happy hunting!</blockquote>

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