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e36 328 ownership experience
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<blockquote data-quote="Lee36328" data-source="post: 287407" data-attributes="member: 113"><p><strong>Is there such a thing as a free mod?</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p>The only certainties in life are death and taxes. And you can't "expense" death away, I don't care what fancy accountants you've got. Time takes its inexorable toll on all things flesh and metal.</p><p></p><p>And so it was, a few months ago, the old faithful lost its zip. One fine day, the 'feel' was gone from the throttle pedal. The surge that used to come with the first milimeter of travel now was reluctant to arrive until I put my foot down. Darn it. </p><p></p><p>So, several new parts later (spark plugs, voltage stablizers, Mobil oil), 50% of the problem was solved, gearchange smoothness improved noticeably, but the old verve wasn't quite there anymore. This is gonna get expensive. Cracked manifold? Exhaust leak? Gearbox issue? Will have to attend to it when my schedule lets up.</p><p></p><p>Then, the alarm starting acting up. When it rains, it pours. Nothing I did would shut the darn thing up. To get a good night's sleep for me and my neighbours, I had to yank the battery cable. That did the trick.</p><p></p><p>The next morning, I reconnected the battery, joined the parking lot they call the highway, and had a revelation. The car felt a fraction of its 11-year age. The low-end torque was smoother and creamier than the final scene of a more expensive dvd. Even the exhaust note sounded better. I was totally blown away.</p><p></p><p>Seems I have reset the ecu back to using the default fuel map, which the factory tunes to give more low-end torque. Read about this before, but haven't given it much thought until now. </p><p></p><p>The ecu, designed to adapt to your driving style, changes the map over time. As I was driving aggressively during some late night runs, it had tuned itself to give me more high-end torque, at the expense of low-end. So, it was great at top speed, and sucked in traffic.</p><p></p><p>Disconnect the negative battery terminal (see below), let it sit for about an hour (capacitors allow the ecu to hold values for a while, and it takes some time to go totally flat.)</p><p></p><p>Interesting quick mod. Best of all, it cost me zip. :rock:</p><p></p><p>" <strong>Battery Removal - Disconnecting and Reconnecting</strong></p><p></p><p> <em>Supertech, Brian#179, Andy #982,</em></p><p> </p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Always, Yes Always disconnect the negative terminal first and ALWAYS, when reconnecting, connect the positive first. ANY Battery, Bike or Car.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">You connect the positive terminal first so that if you slip when connecting the negative terminal, and touch your wrench (or screwdriver, or STEEL WATCH, so remove it. (ed) whatever you're using) between the terminal and the frame, you don't arc-weld your wrench to the battery, to the frame, etc.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">If you connected the negative terminal first, then slipped and touched the positive terminal and the frame with your wrench, you'd complete a circuit (a short circuit - no resistance) and sparks would fly."</li> </ul><p><a href="http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/BatteryFAQ.htm#Battery%20Removal" target="_blank">http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/BatteryFAQ.htm#Battery Removal</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lee36328, post: 287407, member: 113"] [B]Is there such a thing as a free mod? [/B] The only certainties in life are death and taxes. And you can't "expense" death away, I don't care what fancy accountants you've got. Time takes its inexorable toll on all things flesh and metal. And so it was, a few months ago, the old faithful lost its zip. One fine day, the 'feel' was gone from the throttle pedal. The surge that used to come with the first milimeter of travel now was reluctant to arrive until I put my foot down. Darn it. So, several new parts later (spark plugs, voltage stablizers, Mobil oil), 50% of the problem was solved, gearchange smoothness improved noticeably, but the old verve wasn't quite there anymore. This is gonna get expensive. Cracked manifold? Exhaust leak? Gearbox issue? Will have to attend to it when my schedule lets up. Then, the alarm starting acting up. When it rains, it pours. Nothing I did would shut the darn thing up. To get a good night's sleep for me and my neighbours, I had to yank the battery cable. That did the trick. The next morning, I reconnected the battery, joined the parking lot they call the highway, and had a revelation. The car felt a fraction of its 11-year age. The low-end torque was smoother and creamier than the final scene of a more expensive dvd. Even the exhaust note sounded better. I was totally blown away. Seems I have reset the ecu back to using the default fuel map, which the factory tunes to give more low-end torque. Read about this before, but haven't given it much thought until now. The ecu, designed to adapt to your driving style, changes the map over time. As I was driving aggressively during some late night runs, it had tuned itself to give me more high-end torque, at the expense of low-end. So, it was great at top speed, and sucked in traffic. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (see below), let it sit for about an hour (capacitors allow the ecu to hold values for a while, and it takes some time to go totally flat.) Interesting quick mod. Best of all, it cost me zip. :rock: " [B]Battery Removal - Disconnecting and Reconnecting[/B] [I]Supertech, Brian#179, Andy #982,[/I] [LIST] [*]Always, Yes Always disconnect the negative terminal first and ALWAYS, when reconnecting, connect the positive first. ANY Battery, Bike or Car. [*]You connect the positive terminal first so that if you slip when connecting the negative terminal, and touch your wrench (or screwdriver, or STEEL WATCH, so remove it. (ed) whatever you're using) between the terminal and the frame, you don't arc-weld your wrench to the battery, to the frame, etc. [*]If you connected the negative terminal first, then slipped and touched the positive terminal and the frame with your wrench, you'd complete a circuit (a short circuit - no resistance) and sparks would fly." [/LIST] [URL]http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/BatteryFAQ.htm#Battery%20Removal[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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