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The BMW Range
5 Series
E60, E61
E- 60 wheel alignment
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<blockquote data-quote="astroboy" data-source="post: 550465" data-attributes="member: 4527"><p>I can walk into any shop to do my alignment because I know exactly what degree of toe in and camber I want, provided that the shop has the special long wrench for BMW. Imagine walking in to coffee shop and ask the waiter what drinks suits you best.. how to answer? </p><p></p><p>All alignment machines are pre-programmed with our chassis code, just pick the code and you get a set of acceptable tolerance range for our vehicle. So anything within the recommended range is acceptable and that's what all tyre shops practice. Never goes wrong.</p><p></p><p>Now you can see a range in the alignment machine. The only thing you need to consider now is to pick the aggressive outer range or the conservative inner range. If you don't tell the sifu, he'll just set to the middle and agak agak, car can go straight, kao tim! So sometime you get conservative setting but you complain handling tak sedap, sometime you get aggressive setting but you complain tyre makan dalam.. :4:</p><p></p><p>Aggressive = good handling, consume petrol, tyre makan dalam, sacrifice top speed and no pick up.</p><p></p><p>Conservative = save tyre, save petrol, good top speed, good pick up but cornering tak sedap.</p><p></p><p>My E90 front dead camber, cannot set and I'm running zero toe-in, yes, I couldn't believe it too but when exiting roudabout, let go steering, it can straighten, so I'm not complaining. Confirm tyre preservation because toe-in makan tayar despite helping car to point straight and not pulling one side. Surprisingly I don't suffer understeer wor! :13: </p><p></p><p>My rear on minimal toe-in each side to keep the car point straight and at negative 1.3 degree camber. Consider aggressive for my wife's use but I'm using a symmetrical pattern tyre, so if makan inside, I can still re-mount. You need to be aware of this option but if you use asymmetrical tyre, you don't have this option. All this you have to think for yourself. Tyre shop couldn't be bothered. I used to run negative 1.1 rear camber on my OEM RFT CSC2 because that's asymmetric pattern, so not suitable for re-mount. So I was on tyre conservation strategy as oppose to handling. I decide. The E90 rear acceptable camber range is negative 1.1 to negative 1.3.</p><p></p><p>So what's your favorite/preferred setting?! Mine is Teh Ais kao Kurang Manis.. :4:</p><p></p><p>My last alignment was done more than 1 year ago near AB Sg Besi, Tan & Tan Tyre shop carrying Michelin logo, further down from the AB show room, on the left. Most AB Sg Besi car alignments are done there even though AB Sg Besi has alignment machine in the workshop. :4:</p><p></p><p>Alignment job is RM80 and RM20 per wheel for camber, so only 2 rear wheels has camber setting, max damage is 80+20+20 = RM120. If camber no lari, only RM80. So seriously, when I see those figures you all mentioned above.. is really mind boggling to me.. :13:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="astroboy, post: 550465, member: 4527"] I can walk into any shop to do my alignment because I know exactly what degree of toe in and camber I want, provided that the shop has the special long wrench for BMW. Imagine walking in to coffee shop and ask the waiter what drinks suits you best.. how to answer? All alignment machines are pre-programmed with our chassis code, just pick the code and you get a set of acceptable tolerance range for our vehicle. So anything within the recommended range is acceptable and that's what all tyre shops practice. Never goes wrong. Now you can see a range in the alignment machine. The only thing you need to consider now is to pick the aggressive outer range or the conservative inner range. If you don't tell the sifu, he'll just set to the middle and agak agak, car can go straight, kao tim! So sometime you get conservative setting but you complain handling tak sedap, sometime you get aggressive setting but you complain tyre makan dalam.. :4: Aggressive = good handling, consume petrol, tyre makan dalam, sacrifice top speed and no pick up. Conservative = save tyre, save petrol, good top speed, good pick up but cornering tak sedap. My E90 front dead camber, cannot set and I'm running zero toe-in, yes, I couldn't believe it too but when exiting roudabout, let go steering, it can straighten, so I'm not complaining. Confirm tyre preservation because toe-in makan tayar despite helping car to point straight and not pulling one side. Surprisingly I don't suffer understeer wor! :13: My rear on minimal toe-in each side to keep the car point straight and at negative 1.3 degree camber. Consider aggressive for my wife's use but I'm using a symmetrical pattern tyre, so if makan inside, I can still re-mount. You need to be aware of this option but if you use asymmetrical tyre, you don't have this option. All this you have to think for yourself. Tyre shop couldn't be bothered. I used to run negative 1.1 rear camber on my OEM RFT CSC2 because that's asymmetric pattern, so not suitable for re-mount. So I was on tyre conservation strategy as oppose to handling. I decide. The E90 rear acceptable camber range is negative 1.1 to negative 1.3. So what's your favorite/preferred setting?! Mine is Teh Ais kao Kurang Manis.. :4: My last alignment was done more than 1 year ago near AB Sg Besi, Tan & Tan Tyre shop carrying Michelin logo, further down from the AB show room, on the left. Most AB Sg Besi car alignments are done there even though AB Sg Besi has alignment machine in the workshop. :4: Alignment job is RM80 and RM20 per wheel for camber, so only 2 rear wheels has camber setting, max damage is 80+20+20 = RM120. If camber no lari, only RM80. So seriously, when I see those figures you all mentioned above.. is really mind boggling to me.. :13: [/QUOTE]
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E- 60 wheel alignment
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