Does all 3er suffer from too aggressive rear -ve camber?

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astroboy

astroboy

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My old E36 4-pot no such problem but my E90 4-pot is suffering from this... BADLY.I am not complaining about handling but in term of tyre wear. By the time outer thread left 50%, inner thread botak lio.. :(I am referring to rear tyre. Front tyre no problem... on standard suspension and OEM CSC2 endorsed by BMW tyres.Anybody done anything about it? Warranty camber rectification? or just keep changing tyres?:stupid:My E90 is most of the time single occupant, lady driver some more.. :eek:
 
Maybe your lady driver like to race and take corners with power slide :D
Did you compare your current alignment with the alignment specs from BMW?
 
perhaps a visit to the tyre shop soon to check your alignment values. speaking from my present experience with an E46, i still observe outer treadwear on my rear tyres even with a -1.0 camber setting.
 
Maybe my petrol tank always full punya pasal.. :rolleyes:

Inside my boot also nothing heavy ma.. only lady shoes.. u know la.. they all like to "mark their territory" with shoes.. :eek:

I inspected my tyres because of the recent GHS feedback on his 19" 4-potter E90, also suffer from the same fate.. :( His one lagi teruk, 15k km, rear tyre inner thread habis lio.. :eek: mine at least on 19k km lio..

I hope it has nothing to do with JOKER's conspsiracy theory of Chinaman driving a BMW 3 series.. :eek: If that's the case, I have just discovered a bug then.. :D
 
astroboy;398732 said:
Maybe my petrol tank always full punya pasal.. :rolleyes:

Inside my boot also nothing heavy ma.. only lady shoes.. u know la.. they all like to "mark their territory" with shoes.. :eek:

I inspected my tyres because of the recent GHS feedback on his 19" 4-potter E90, also suffer from the same fate.. :( His one lagi teruk, 15k km, rear tyre inner thread habis lio.. :eek: mine at least on 19k km lio..

I hope it has nothing to do with JOKER's conspsiracy theory of Chinaman driving a BMW 3 series.. :eek: If that's the case, I have just discovered a bug then.. :D
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haa haa...must be a big over weight obes "bug" been eating ur tyre thread..
 
you should take your car to sepang to balance things up :) or you could just get ur camber adjusted...its real easy n cheap to adjust e60 rear camber (front cannot adjust)...i have mine set at -1.5 and dun seem to face inner wear prob. check w the regular tire shop...i think AB is quite expensive
 
astroboy;398732 said:
I inspected my tyres because of the recent GHS feedback on his 19" 4-potter E90, also suffer from the same fate.. :( His one lagi teruk, 15k km, rear tyre inner thread habis lio.. :eek: mine at least on 19k km lio..

I hope it has nothing to do with JOKER's conspsiracy theory of Chinaman driving a BMW 3 series.. :eek: If that's the case, I have just discovered a bug then.. :D
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A little bit more la bro, 17k km ;)
Oh, so you are also experiencing the same issue as me huh...
I didn't exactly find out the root cause, but I did ask the tyre shop and the guy told me that my rear camber is the standard one, it was never adjusted (dunno what's the value though).

However, a workaround I'll try in future is to remount the tyres every 8k km, so that the inner and outer tread wear is balanced. Note that this only applies to tyres with symmetrical tread like the Falken FK452, Toyo T1-R, Goodyear Eagle F1 etc. Will not help those tyres with asymmetrical tread like the Falken Ziex 912, CSC2/3, Michelin PS2, as there's a designated "inside" and "outside".

After changing my rear tyres, I went back to the tyre shop to have the fronts remounted as well the following day. Also noticed that the inner wear is slightly greater than outer wear. Anyone knows if it's normal for tyre shops to charge a fee for remounting tyres?

Btw, what Chinaman conspiracy theory is that?
 
speedrats;399121 said:
Pls check your toe out settings. It should be toe in.
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Toe-in/out should not cause inner thread wear and if toe-out, car can easily "drift" :eek: which I don't find its the case with mine.. :wink:
 
astroboy;399141 said:
Toe-in/out should not cause inner thread wear and if toe-out, car can easily "drift" :eek: which I don't find its the case with mine.. :wink:
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Toe adjustment can greatly affect your tire wear.
Have it check.
Larger tires, and/or different offset rims can contribute the problem as well.

Tips: Drifting promote equal of tires wear :D
 
The rule of thumb is to get your UDM get inspected at the wheel alignment and balancing at every 10,000km. I use e90 325i and now is at 33k at only 6 months old. I've been twice to Ah Ching alignment shop in Seremban.
 
maanly;400620 said:
The rule of thumb is to get your UDM get inspected at the wheel alignment and balancing at every 10,000km. I use e90 325i and now is at 33k at only 6 months old. I've been twice to Ah Ching alignment shop in Seremban.
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Been there twice for inspection or rectification or both? :smokin:
 
Get it inspected and normally Ah Ching will adjust the chambers and whatnots accordingly. It not exensive. Mine was just RM80 for all 4 wheels balancing and wheel alignment for all 4 tyres. So far its superb..Everything is done manually as the good old days...but the alignment maching are made in England though..so its good old English technology...
 
better have it checked at ingress auto. they have the latest advanced bmw spec'd alignment and balancing equiptment. i think its worth the investment. sounds like ur tires/wheels are not properly or wrongly set up.
 
astro,

u may also want to read this useful info in this link, thanks to tirerack.com

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

some facts:

Different driving styles can also influence the desired camber angle as well. An enthusiastic driver who corners faster than a reserved driver will receive more cornering grip and longer tire life from a tire aligned with more negative camber. However with the aggressive negative camber, a reserved driver's lower cornering speeds would cause the inside edges of the tires to wear faster than the outside edges.

What's the downside to negative camber? Negative camber leans both tires on the axle towards the center of the vehicle. Each tire develops an equal and offsetting "camber thrust" force (the same principle that causes a motorcycle to turn when it leans) even when the vehicle is driven straight ahead. If the vehicle encounters a bump that only causes one tire to lose some of its grip, the other tire's negative camber will push the vehicle in the direction of the tire that lost grip. The vehicle may feel more "nervous" and become more susceptible to tramlining. Excessive camber will also reduce the available straight-line grip required for rapid acceleration and hard stops.

Appropriate camber settings that take into account the vehicle and driver's aggressiveness will help balance treadwear with cornering performance. For street-driven vehicles, this means that tire wear and handling requirements must be balanced according to the driver's needs. The goal is to use enough negative camber to provide good cornering performance while not requiring the tire to put too much of its load on the inner edge while traveling in a straight line. Less negative camber (until the tire is perpendicular to the road at zero camber) typically will reduce the cornering ability, but results in more even wear.

toe-in toe-out.

Additionally the vehicle's toe is one of the most critical alignment settings relative to tire wear. A toe setting that is just a little off its appropriate setting can make a huge difference in their wear. Consider that if the toe setting is just 1/16-inch off of its appropriate setting, each tire on that axle will scrub almost seven feet sideways every mile! Extend it out and you'll discover that rather than running parallel to each other, the front tires will scrub over 1/4-mile sideways during every 100 miles of driving! Incorrect toe will rob you of tire life. UNQUOTE

Hope u get it fixed. :)
 
bimmerdude;402042 said:
... However with the aggressive negative camber, a reserved driver's lower cornering speeds would cause the inside edges of the tires to wear faster than the outside edges....
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:13::13::13:

So it's the driver's fault.. :eek:

I kind of agree though.. that means there's no such thing as 1 std factory spec for all drivers. Camber degree is a very personalised thing. Anyone disagree?
 
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