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The BMW Range
5 Series
E34
bigger brakes option for E34
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<blockquote data-quote="Roberto" data-source="post: 707960" data-attributes="member: 8160"><p>Its like this guys.</p><p></p><p>You're driving a BMW.</p><p></p><p>You feel the engine is not so cool.</p><p></p><p>You're not going to tell yourself that the engine sucks....because BMW built it.</p><p></p><p>You're going to check your engine out from tip to toe. You're going to check for oil leaks. You're going to check for vacuum leaks. You're going to flush your engine to make sure its clean. You're going to make sure you've got engine oil with the right rating in here. You're going to check if you've got error codes. You're going to pull out your spark plugs and see if they look ok. You're going to check if the engine belts are in good shape and are correctly tensioned, and you're going to check if all the pulleys are smooth and undamaged. If possible you will check if your timing chain's tensioner (there are two) are ok. You're going to clean your icv. You're going to clean your throttle body. You're going to make sure your air filter is not dirty. You're going to make sure that your air hoses and vacuum hoses (even the one's connecting the brake booster) are in good shape, have no cracks, and all clamps are tight. You're going to go for an italian tuneup.</p><p></p><p>THEN</p><p></p><p>You're going to drive with the afm, air temp sensor, ects (engine's coolant sensor) and o2 sensor disconnected or deactivated one by one (everything else being correctly connected) and see if the car performs much better. You need to do this because the fault code reporting system for cars in that generation were not too good, very early generation - they didn't always code a lousy or damaged sensor, and kept them online and kept responding to their bad inputs which will usually degrade fuel economy but often also performance....so you do the disconnect test to be absolutely sure.</p><p></p><p>THEN </p><p></p><p>You're going to check your transmission's oil, torque convertor.</p><p></p><p>THEN</p><p></p><p>you're going to check your rear differential's fluid, and the differential itself if you don't mind spending rm30 more to open the back plate and looking at the teeth in the ring gear directly.</p><p></p><p>Then you're going to check your tyres.</p><p></p><p></p><p>And only then....are you going to wonder if you need a more aggressive chip, bigger engine, shorter rear differential, a manual swop, etc.</p><p></p><p>***</p><p></p><p></p><p>Same thing for the brakes. If you are not happy with the brakes, and you're driving a BMW, then the first thing you need to do is to thoroughly check out your brake system. It may not be the world's best but it should not be disappointing. If it is, something is definitely wrong somewhere, and getting a BBK may only mask this problem if it remains unfixed.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Roberto, post: 707960, member: 8160"] Its like this guys. You're driving a BMW. You feel the engine is not so cool. You're not going to tell yourself that the engine sucks....because BMW built it. You're going to check your engine out from tip to toe. You're going to check for oil leaks. You're going to check for vacuum leaks. You're going to flush your engine to make sure its clean. You're going to make sure you've got engine oil with the right rating in here. You're going to check if you've got error codes. You're going to pull out your spark plugs and see if they look ok. You're going to check if the engine belts are in good shape and are correctly tensioned, and you're going to check if all the pulleys are smooth and undamaged. If possible you will check if your timing chain's tensioner (there are two) are ok. You're going to clean your icv. You're going to clean your throttle body. You're going to make sure your air filter is not dirty. You're going to make sure that your air hoses and vacuum hoses (even the one's connecting the brake booster) are in good shape, have no cracks, and all clamps are tight. You're going to go for an italian tuneup. THEN You're going to drive with the afm, air temp sensor, ects (engine's coolant sensor) and o2 sensor disconnected or deactivated one by one (everything else being correctly connected) and see if the car performs much better. You need to do this because the fault code reporting system for cars in that generation were not too good, very early generation - they didn't always code a lousy or damaged sensor, and kept them online and kept responding to their bad inputs which will usually degrade fuel economy but often also performance....so you do the disconnect test to be absolutely sure. THEN You're going to check your transmission's oil, torque convertor. THEN you're going to check your rear differential's fluid, and the differential itself if you don't mind spending rm30 more to open the back plate and looking at the teeth in the ring gear directly. Then you're going to check your tyres. And only then....are you going to wonder if you need a more aggressive chip, bigger engine, shorter rear differential, a manual swop, etc. *** Same thing for the brakes. If you are not happy with the brakes, and you're driving a BMW, then the first thing you need to do is to thoroughly check out your brake system. It may not be the world's best but it should not be disappointing. If it is, something is definitely wrong somewhere, and getting a BBK may only mask this problem if it remains unfixed. [/QUOTE]
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bigger brakes option for E34
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