Anyone knows what is Hi Speed alignment?

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harry_7

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Just did my wheel balancing & alignment yesterday. But the mechanic told me if can, go for Hi Speed alignment, it will fit the offset of the rims and will not have space in between to cause steering vibrate, anyone heard of this? Due to time issue I didn't do it yet.Balancing charge me RM 8.00 each wheel, alignment RM 80.00 1 lot, camber adjust RM 60.00 each wheel, is it reasonable?The mechanic did the adjustment NOT follow the computer reading, but use the pulling ruler to measure it, is it precise enough?
 
Pulling ruler with strings is an out-dated alignment method not as precise/accurate as compared to the current computer/laser system. Obviously some mechanics will swear that the old system is still the best but then again, their thought maybe limited by their knowledge in the current automotive technology/computer . Our BMWs are full of sensors and whatnots and given a choice I certainly won't want someone to adjust my car's alignment/camber with a manual method.
 
High speed alignment was maybe referred to On-Wheel Balancing
 
Aiya... Hi speed alignment is actually a shop name.

It's the old school of alignment using the scissors fan front left/right, then he will use the string and other tools to do it...my wira, mini and e30 he did is very good.


he is very good of it. Older cars is very good, new cars with active steering cannot..



btw, this method is still used on the track, where last minute camber, castor and toe adjustments is made everytime.
 
Can you clarify why manual method not suitable for new car?
 
The shop name is not high speed, but is top speed. Just tried on the manual adjustment alignment really not bad, stable driving till 160-170km/h.
 
harry_7;672740 said:
The shop name is not high speed, but is top speed. Just tried on the manual adjustment alignment really not bad, stable driving till 160-170km/h.


oh i see, but there is a shop by that name. he's at Kampung Medan PJ..
 
A good alignment job is no rocket science, make sure your bushings, ball joints, rims are in good condition, how difficult to get the alignment right?! And in amazes me that with state of the art laser guided system, still there are those who prefer to tarik tali.. :13:

High speed and cornering stability is very simple, more toe-in and negative camber would do but your tyre will makan like crazy.. believe it or not, I'm running 0 degree toe-in in my front.. but surprises me, car no pulling wor [perhaps mild.. :p] and confirm top speed maximised and tyre very lasting.. :p but braking tak sedap la.

When at tyre shop do alignment, any shop will do as long as they adjust according to my preferred settings. What's your preferred settings? Do you know?!
 
AB, i guess some wud consider the tarik tali method more romantic.. like courting :)
 
Machine need to be calibrated but tali don't need laa.
So are the machine ' laser guided' calibrated?:cool:
 
herbert;672415 said:
Pulling ruler with strings is an out-dated alignment method not as precise/accurate as compared to the current computer/laser system. Obviously some mechanics will swear that the old system is still the best but then again, their thought maybe limited by their knowledge in the current automotive technology/computer . Our BMWs are full of sensors and whatnots and given a choice I certainly won't want someone to adjust my car's alignment/camber with a manual method.

Herbert, you would be supprise that what you say abt it not being accurate, is not entirely true, u should take a walk in the pits in Sepang during race/practice days and u should see what method some of them use to do alignment on the race cars...mine you Im not talking abt low budget teams but teams running lambos and porsches ...and in racing it has to be very accurate.
 
The mechanic told me, manual can be more accurate then the laser gun, seems he said machine will have error too, correct him, if he is wrong.
 
So what's the "right" setting? Rear camber running how many negative degree for the rear of E60? What's the range? I know E90 is between -1.1 to -1.6 with a recommended -1.3 while I specified mine -1.2 because not aggressive driving.. :p

My rear toe in is more aggressive than my front. The string pulling method has a bigger error margin compared to a well calibrated laser guided system, as such, I rather take my chance with a computerized system. Those in the pit had to pull string because that's their only choice for last minute fine tuning due to changing road condition or weather.

End of the day is preference la. Pick the one that suits u the best because your money your choice ma.
 
"My rear toe in is more aggressive than my front. The string pulling method has a bigger error margin compared to a well calibrated laser guided system, as such, I rather take my chance with a computerized system. Those in the pit had to pull string because that's their only choice for last minute fine tuning due to changing road condition or weather."


AB, in the pit, we use the string for toe n steering with straightness adjustments, for camber is the camber gauge caliper tool or the china made magnet version...camber not using string...

Q740002(1).jpg


or

Racers%20Choice%20cambergauge_wo%20hands%20free.jpg


or the magnet (for the MSS)

848150553.jpg
 
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